Discover historical Kyoto with this Higasyiyama and Gion Neighborhood Guide

Wander the district at sunset to see geiko (geishas) heading to their evening work. During the day, visit the magnificent Maruyama Park, best strolled through on a sunny day and especially during the spring hanami season.

Kyoto is known for being one of the great historic cities of East Asia, and Higashiyama and Gion are a big part of the reason why. When you think temples, parks, cherry blossoms (sakura), geisha, rikshaws, ryokans, you’re thinking of Higashiyama and Gion. That’s the legacy of this marvellous and tranquil district of Kyoto.

Breakfast in Higashiyama: Tamagoyaki

Starting the day off with a solid breakfast is very much part of Japanese culture. In fact, the traditional Japanese word for breakfast — asagohan — literally means ‘morning rice bowl’. One of the best places to try a hearty local breakfast consisting of tamagoyaki (omelet – literally ‘cooked egg’), fresh, warm rice, grilled salmon, pickles, and miso soup is at Roji Usagi.

The views of their garden are picturesque making this a tranquil and healthy start to your day. Everything on the menu is hearty and warming.

Not only is it guaranteed to fill you up for a day of exploring, but it’s also a perfect encapsulation of all that is good in a traditional Japanese breakfast: eggs, fish, rice, and miso soup, all present and all cooked to perfection. You can’t get a better start to the day.

Read More: Japanese Language Essentials and Travel Phrases

Morning in Higashiyama: Sannenzaka & Ninenzaka

Take a fifteen-minute walk from Roji Usagi, and you’ll come to the historic lanes Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, two of the city’s most well-preserved streets. These two lanes are what Kyoto is all about, and they’re one of the most atmospheric and traditionally picturesque parts of Higashiyama.

Here, you can buy local Japanese delicacies, arts and crafts like furoshiki cloths, and other souvenirs. You can also simply wander and admire the gorgeous traditional Japanese architecture. The streets have several cafes to choose from if you need a caffeine hit mid-morning, including the sleek Arabica Kyoto—a real local favourite and known to serve some of the best coffee in the city. 

If you’re hoping to try on some traditional clothing, there are also several kimono rental shops in this area, and the backdrop is perfect—as in, you can’t really get more perfect. Wearing a kimono and strolling the lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka will transport you back to Edo Japan better than anything else ever could (rent a kimono for the day here).

Lunch in Higashiyama: Oshizushi

One of Kyoto’s specialties is Oshizushi, or ‘pressed sushi’. Izuju is a local favourite, famous for its high-quality mackerel oshizushi. It’s a perfect size for lunch and really provides a perfect sampling of the local cuisine.

Almost every town in Japan has its own cuisine — something that was born there (Osaka, for example, has both okonomiyaki and kushikatsu). Well, Kyoto has oshizushi, its own unique style of preparing sushi. And the mackerel is the most flavourful of the lot.

If you don’t fancy sitting indoors, you can get their sushi to go and eat it in Maruyama Park and admire Yasaka Shrine. Picnics in the park are a beloved part of Japanese culture so you won’t be alone. If it’s cherry blossom season, don’t miss the famous shidarezakura weeping cherry tree in the park.

Read More: Explore outside the main city and find Kyoto’s Hidden Spots.

Afternoon in Higashiyama: Maruyama Park

Continue through Maruyama Park until you reach Chion-in, a stunning Buddhist temple complex built in 1618. Depending on the day you visit, various services occur at the temple, which you can quietly witness and learn a thing or two about the importance of Buddhist traditions in Kyoto.

Towards the end of the park is the grand Shōren-in Monzeki Temple, a serene space with bamboo groves to wander and historic shrines to visit. Finally, stroll out of the park to the nearby Tatsumi Bridge, one of the most scenic bridges in the city, to take pictures and enjoy the view before dinner.

Top Tip: Take a night walking tour in Gion to see the geisha, learn about kimono, geisha hairstyles and more

If you have extra time, you’ll find Kahitsukan, Kyoto Modern Art Museum, which is an ideal way to see some of the photography and art of modern Kyoto to juxtapose the historical atmosphere. Not everything in Kyoto is historic, after all.

The artists — both young and old — who live there today are producing some incredible contemporary artwork which you can see on display at Kahitsukan.

Exploring the museum is a great way to really digest the ways in which Kyoto has maintained its ties to tradition and historic architecture, while still being able to move on into the realms of modern art. Japan really does blend it’s old and it’s new so beautifully.

Dinner in Higashiyama: Wagyu Steak

A day in Kyoto isn’t complete without some wagyu beef, and Premium Wagyu Steak Hanasato is an ideal choice. This restaurant offers Teppanyaki style (pan-fried) meals in relaxed surroundings where you can really unwind and tuck into your meal after a long day.

Watch the chefs in action as they work like artists while enjoying premium cuts of grilled steak and seasonal local ingredients from Kyoto. There’s also a great wine and sake list to choose from, which all goes very well with wagyu steak.

Read More: Books to Read Before You Visit Japan

‘After Hours’ in Higashiyama

There are two options for spending the evening in Higashiyama: either catch a show at Minami-za, Japan’s oldest kabuki theatre, where you can witness a colourful performance made popular during the Edo period.

Or you can head to one of Kyoto’s fantastic bars. If it’s the latter, then how about choosing from a list of 500 whiskeys (both Japanese and international) a sake or a custom cocktail at Gion Samboa, a classic Japanese bar that originally opened in 1918?

Read More: 24 Hours in Daimyo, Fukuoka

Where to Stay in Higashiyama

Gion Hatanaka Ryokan: This friendly ryokan with spacious rooms and ensuite bathtubs is perfect if you want to be in the centre of the historic district and experience some of the best of traditional Japanese culture. They offer large dinners combined with geisha performances which is an enchanting way to spend the evening in Higashiyama.

Bonus: If you love geisha and want to treat yourself then we highly recommend this Maiko makeover photoshoot

That’s not to mention the thriving art culture that’s present in the city. From boutique shops to art galleries and hipster cafes, creativity is far from lacking in Japan’s old capital.

Enjoy Kyoto’s off-the-beaten-track areas

That being said, there’s a whole prefecture outside of the city just waiting to be explored. ‘Greater Kyoto’, as I like to call it, is where you’ll find authentic Japanese culture, secret spots, breath-taking views, and really get a chance to meet local people.

Read More: 24 Hours in Higashiyama – Kyoto’s Cultural Centre

For this guide, we’re heading to the north of the prefecture, just 130 kilometers from the city; an area which could easily be described as Kyoto by the Sea since you’ll be enjoying stunning coastal views the whole way.

The region consists of seven key cities and towns: Kyotango, Ine-cho, Yosano-cho, Miyazu, Maizuru, Ayabe, and Fukuchiyama. Here are some of the key places to visit within those areas and how to get there.

Amanohashidate

Amanohashidate is renowned as being one of Japan’s Scenic Trio (Nihon Sankei 日本三景). The other two scenic sites being in Miyajima (vermillion torii on the ocean) in Hiroshima and Matsushima (pine tree islands) near Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture.

The area is centred around a 3.6km long sandbar created thousands of years ago by opposing ocean currents and is well worth a visit.  You can walk across it or rent a bicycle and ride across in about 10 minutes.

You’ll notice people with their head between their legs while you’re there and it’s easy to question what you’ve missed and maybe you should just copy them.

Luckily, I can share what I found out – if you view it upside down (especially from Kasamatsu Park) it’s supposed to look like a bridge to heaven, which, incidentally, is exactly what “Amanohashidate” means.

To get the best view of the area, head to the cable car at Kasamatsu Park, you can even take a chair lift down instead of the cable car for some amazing shots.

Amanohashidate Cable Car / Chair Lift (Fuchu Station) to go up to Kasamatsu
Park.

Round trip: ¥660 for adults, ¥330 for children

An extra thing to do nearby:

Moto-Ise Kono Shrine (元伊勢籠神社)

Ise Grand Shrines (Ise Jingu) in Mie Prefecture are Japan’s most sacred Shinto shrines. They are dedicated to the Sun Goddess Amaterasu (Shinto’s most important goddess, and legendary ancestor of the Imperial family) and Toyouke-Omikami (豊受大神), goddess of agriculture.

Before Ise Jingu was established around the 7th century, a number of shrines for these two deities were temporarily established in various locations, including this Kono Shrine.

Free admission
Open: 7:00–17:00

Directions: The closest train station is Amanohashidate Station (Kyoto Tango Railway). From there, take a local bus bound for Ine, Kamanyu, or Kyogamisaki ([伊根・亀島] [蒲入] [経ヶ岬]) and get off at Jinja-mae stop.

If you like cycling then you can rent a bicycle and ride across Amanohashidate to the other end. Bicycles can be rented at a souvenir shop in front of Amanohashidate Station and at the entrance of Amanohashidate sandbar.

Read More: 5 Best Museums in Osaka

Maizuru

Maizuru has been a navy town since 1901. It was a key naval base during the Russo-Japanese War (1904–05). Today, it is home to the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force’s Maizuru navy base.

The Maizuru Brick Park

A must-visit while in the area, The Maizuru Brick Park stands as a testament to the rapid militarization in the early parts of the twentieth century. After the Japanese navy base was built in 1901, many brick buildings in Maizuru were rapidly built for the Japanese navy to store munitions (arsenal).

You can visit twelve of the brick buildings, of which eight are National Important Cultural Properties. You can explore inside, visit the coffee shop, and admire the exhibits and galleries they have within.

Address: Maizuru Brick Park
Kitasui 1039-2, Maizuru-shi, Kyoto
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/ZuFd1eXrNds
English pamphlet pdf: http://akarenga-park.com/wp/wp-content/themes/karappo_standard/assets/pdf/english.pdf

Where to eat: Shoeikan (松栄館)

A relatively new restaurant which opened in late 2018, originally the annexe of the Shoeikan ryokan inn which opened in 1904. It’s unsurprising that period films have been shot here as it genuinely feels like you’re dining in the past.

The restaurant’s menu is very reasonable, and prices range from ¥900 for a meal and ¥4,500 for a full course.

A delicious and hearty selection, British people will be particularly happy here since many of the dishes are reminiscent of our home-cooking.

For example, nikujaga, a meat, potatoes and onion dish (whose name literally means ‘meat and potatoes’) that is very popular in Japanese households is very similar to the classic stews our mothers make in the UK.

Our personal favourite dish, Japanese curry and rice, is also very similar to the curries we enjoy back home (although Japanese curries are far superior in our humble opinion).

Why the similarities, you ask? The British navy who were originally stationed in Maizuru a century ago left recipes behind to share with the locals, recipes which have been adapted into Japanese home cooking today.

Shoueikan specializes in a special kind of cuisine, called yoshoku, imitating recipes that were recorded in a Meiji-era navy recipe book of over 200 Western inspired recipes.

Hours – Lunch: 11:30–14:30/ Dinner: 17:30–21:30
Directions
About 1 km from JR Higashi Maizuru Station. Parking available. Also within 1 km to Maizuru Brick Park.
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/sQd8ZdekJqA2
Address Shoeikan, Hama 18, Maizuru-shi, Kyoto

An extra thing to do nearby:

If you have a car or organise some sort of private transport, then this stunning spot is well worth your time.

Read More: How to Spend a Perfect Day in Daimyo, Fukuoka

Yoshihara Irie Inlet (吉原入江)

This beautiful waterfront fishing neighbourhood is a photographer’s dream. With boats moored right outside and Venice like canals, this fishing village has been operating since the Edo Period.

There’s not much to do in the area aside from walking around, taking pictures, and to try and have a chat with the locals. But with views like this, who needs anything more?

Address: Yoshihara Irie Inlet
Route 565, Higashi-yoshihara, Maizuru-shi, Kyoto
京都府舞鶴市東吉原 府道565号線
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/2zZPb3jvhDN2

Ine

A truly undiscovered gem in Kyoto, it’s a rural seaside town with 230 gorgeous funaya buildings over a five-kilometre stretch of coast. You can take a boat trip around the lake and take incredible shots or just simply enjoy the atmosphere of the village. This was one of my favourite places on the whole trip.

There’s a lot to do in the area since younger generations are returning to Ine and opening inns, cafes, and restaurants within the funaya. This is an amazing place to try the local fish dishes since everything is freshly caught.

Read More: I will keep it short here since we have a whole post dedicated to this area right here. Enjoy!

Japanese Oni Exchange Museum

One of my favourite things we saw on the trip was the oni museum in Fukuchiyama explaining and exhibiting everything oni (a kind of demon or ogre) from masks to statues, and paintings from Japan and overseas. Set at the foot of Oeyama mountains, mountains famous for their oni legends.

Directions
15 min. by taxi from Oe Station (Kyoto Tango Railway).
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/BPYUCzJwBaN2
Address
Japanese Oni Exchange Museum
Busshoji 909, Oecho, Fukuchiyama, Kyoto
〒620-0321京都府福知山市大江町仏性寺909

Where to stay:

We chose a combination of homestay and ryokan (traditional Japanese hotel) since we wanted the best of both worlds.

An intimate experience with a local family is priceless when you travel and this as no different as we stayed up eating and drinking with the elderly couple who hosted us and even got to help make the rice in a traditional pot on a fire.

There are a number of homestays in the area known as Ayabe Farmhouse Lodges. They have a website in Japanese but I’d definitely recommend getting in touch with the tourism board to help you book. They’re very helpful!

Shorenkan Yoshinoya

The ryokan allowed us some much needed time in the onsen after all of our travels. The indoor and outdoor onsen in this ryokan are stunning – check out these pictures and since the ryokan only houses 22 guests the chances of getting it to yourself are very high. They also didn’t mind my tattoos – hurrah.

Here we enjoyed a traditional ryokan meal which always lasts hours with small courses allowing you to reminisce on your day. There’s a beautiful shared lounge downstairs where you can take coffee and you’re also provided with yukata to wear for your stay which is perfect for taking pictures in.

The nearest station is Amino Station (Kyoto Tango Railway). Then the ryokan can pick you up at the station for free.

For more information on the area, to book activities or a local homestay then get in touch with the tourism board here.

How to get to these places:

It’s very possible to travel to these areas via public transport from Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto.

The main gateway to northern Kyoto is Fukuchiyama Station in Fukuchiyama. Trains from JR Osaka Station (via JR Fukuchiyama Line) and JR Kyoto Station go to Fukuchiyama Station.

You can also go from Tokyo Station to JR Kyoto Station and start there.

From Fukuchiyama Station you can then use the Kyoto Tango Railway and JR San’in Line – you can also easily reach Maizuru, Miyazu, and Amanohashidate from here.

You can then use this tourist map to guide you regarding buses and local trains. Again, if you’re stuck the tourism board will be very happy to help you.

If you’re travelling around Japan, don’t forget your JR Pass. Trains are expensive!

If you’re visiting Tokyo, check out our city guide.

Having grown up by the sea, and now finding myself in metropolis after metropolis, I jumped at the chance to experience the quieter seaside life of rural Japan; Ine was exactly that.

While it’s not on the typical tourist trail, it’s not hard to reach Ine by yourself; and seeing a new side to Japan is very worth the effort. If you are looking for the best of the tourist attractions in Kyoto, you can check out this post or enjoy this three-day itinerary for Kyoto and Osaka.

Where is Ine, Kyoto?

Ine is located 130km north of Kyoto, and is considered to be one of the major heritage areas of Japan. You can find shrines and burial mounds nearby indicating the long history of the area. The rugged green mountains are a refreshing contrast to the tidy snake of hills you see on the way down from Tokyo, and the sea air is a wonderful change from the city.

It’s possible to travel here from Kyoto. It takes two and a half hours to travel by train (or bus) from Kyoto Station to Amanohashidate Station, then an hour by bus (56) to Ine.

If you’re traveling around Japan, don’t forget your JR Pass. Trains are expensive!

In Ine, all buses first make a stop at the cruise ship pier (伊根湾めぐり・日出, Inewan Meguri Hide) before serving the Ine bus stop in the town centre. I would recommend basing yourself in Amanohasidate, since there’s so much to do in the area (more on that soon) and then you’re in a perfect position to get to and from Ine easily.

I’ve added a tourist transport map at the bottom which should help you out.

Read More: See More of this Wonderful Part of Kyoto in our Hidden Secrets Post

Tour the Funayas on a sightseeing boat:

One of the highlights of my trip to Ine was taking the boat around the Funayas, the unique Ine houses that have existed since the 1700s. Most of the houses are wooden two floor buildings, each with a garage to hold their boat. The main houses are often mountain side and the upper floor next to the water are usually reserved for guests or younger members of the family.

Our tour on the water was with the ‘Kameshimamru Sightseeing Boat’ and cost 1000 for a half- hour tour boat ride where you feed the seagulls (a truly impressive experience, which brought back too many memories of having my food stolen on the beach at home) and also includes an inside tour of one of the Funaya houses.

The views were incredible; the combination of the sea air, the mountains, the unique houses, and the hordes of gulls made you appreciate the simpler things in life. I really wasn’t particularly keen to return to Tokyo at that moment.

Address: Kameshima Maru Ine boat cruise and Ine town tour, Kameshima 822, Ine-cho, Yosa-gun, Kyoto, 〒626-0424 京都府与謝郡伊根町字亀島822番地

You can contact the tourism board for help booking: Official Ine Tourism English Site

Our local guide took us around the village, shared the history of the area, and even showed us how they fish.

Luckily, you don’t need to reserve in advance for this experience, just turn up and go. But, I would recommend giving one of the numbers below a call.

Kameshimamaru: 090-8579-1002 | The Ine Tourist Association can help you with most things you need. (0772-32-0277).

Top Tip: You can also find bicycles to rent and tour the area.

Where to Stay and Eat in Ine

There are a number of wonderful restaurants in the area and each one offers fresh fish dishes, unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.

Funaya Shokudo

We tried one of their set meals which included sashimi, fresh mackerel, rice, okra, and your own personal candle-lit form of shabu-shabu. The interior was relaxed and had a beautiful view of the bay so I’d highly recommend it. There are lots of options on the menu and the coffee is excellent.

Address: Funaya Shokudo, Hirata 491 (2nd floor), Ine-cho, Yosa-gun, Kyoto
京都府与謝郡伊根町平田491 2F
Website: http://www.ine-kankou.jp/taste/funayashokudo/
Restaurant Map: https://goo.gl/maps/FNzXKCJKJNQ2

Top Tip: You can find other Ine eateries here.

Stay in a Funaya:

You can actually stay in one of the local houses. There’s nothing quite like opening up your curtains to the incredible view of the sea. If it’s something you’re interested in, then it’s best to contact the tourism board and they can arrange it for you.

Otherwise, if you’re planning on staying in nearby Amonhasidate then here are my picks of where to stay in Kyoto:

Taikyourou : Close to the beach with on-site hot springs. You’re also five minutes’ walk from the Amonhasidate Land Bridge – meaning you’re in a great location to explore Amonhashidate after Ine. It’s also a 5-minute walk from the train station.

Maruyasu : A similar location, just 1-minute from the train station. The offer bike rentals, a small spa and a great breakfast.

Shorenkan Yoshinoya : The ryokan allowed us some much needed time in the onsen after all of our travels. The indoor and outdoor onsen in this ryokan are stunning. The nearest station is Amino Station (Kyoto Tango Railway).  You’re also provided with yukata to wear for your stay which is perfect for taking pictures.

Recommended Souvenirs from Ine

Sake from Mukai Shuzo: worth a visit if just to see the beautiful building. They’re open every day and have been open since 1754, The brewery is currently headed by a female master brewer.

Their signature drink (and my favourite from the ones I tried – yes there are free tastings!) was the ‘Ine Mankai’. It’s created from an ancient variety of rice, with a natural red colour and fruit flavour. It’ll be very hard not to take some home with you. You can also buy vinegar and a number of other food products.

Address: Mukai Shuzo Sake Brewery, Hirata 67, Ine-cho, Yosa-gun, Kyoto, 〒626-0423 京都府与謝郡伊根町平田67 kuramoto-mukai

Another place to find souvenirs is Funayano Sato Ine, a lovely shop run by a local fishery company. They create their own fishing nets, and handmade products.

I hope you enjoy your trip to Ine! If you have any questions then just leave them in the comments.

Here’s a transport map to help you out

Read More: 24- Hours in Higashiyama, Kyoto – Geisha, Culture and More