Cold countries with tough climates and rugged landscapes have a wonderful habit of developing hearty cuisines made from belly-filling carbohydrates and meats, as well as a love of forest-floor foraging. Latvia is no different. This Baltic country’s cuisine is full of good fish and mushrooms, with a penchant for pickling everything. These are the hearty Latvian foods and iconic drinks to enjoy by the fireside with friends.

In this guide to Latvian food, you’ll learn about the country’s most beloved and classic soups, breads, meaty meals, and some unique Latvian desserts. We’ll provide you with all you need to order a three-course meal at a restaurant in Riga, as well as the best Latvian alcohol to accompany your dinner. Let’s start with some traditional Latvian foods and meals, then we’ll move on to Latvian soups, desserts, and drinks.

Hearty Latvian Foods

With Latvia being a country that sits at the edge of the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Riga, there are plenty of unique fish-focussed dishes in that wealth of unique Latvian foods. But, if fish isn’t your favourite, Latvians also love their breads and carbs; they pickle almost everything; and they enjoy foraging for the best fresh local Latvian mushrooms for their heartiest dishes.

1) Pelmeni Dumplings

This is one of several Latvian foods which shares its roots, and even its name, with a Russian counterpart. The name pelmeni derives from the ear-like shape of the dumplings themselves.

Pelmeni dumplings, like any dumplings you might find in Poland, China or Japan, comprise two parts: a dough casing and a meaty filling. That meat is usually beef or pork (or a mix of the two) and the finished dumplings are usually bite-sized or a little larger. A plate of pelmeni dumplings makes for a tasty and filling lunch.

2) Dark Rye Bread (Rumpjmaize)

Dark rye bread is a food that can be found all over Eastern Europe and Russia, including Latvia’s neighbouring countries: Estonia and Lithuania. It’s a very healthy, hearty, and filling bread with a uniquely bitter flavour. Rumpjmaize is a staple part of the Latvian diet and, like rice in Japan, is often seen served with every single meal. For an added drop of sweetness, apple juice is often used in the recipe for Latvian dark rye bread.

3) Karbonade

Often paired with the popular side dish known as grikl (buckwheat), karbonade is a uniquely Latvian dish which will look familiar to anyone who has ever enjoyed an Austrian wiener schnitzel (Viennese cutlet).

Latvian karbonade is a thinly-sliced pork cutlet, coated with flour and eggs. It’s one more uniquely Latvian food but one which, in Latvia, is a very commonly enjoyed main dish, often made in the family home but also enjoyed in iconic restaurants like Lidos.

4) Pelēkie Zirņi

Literally meaning ‘grey peas’, pelekie zirni isn’t only another uniquely Latvian food; it is also Latvia’s national dish. While they’re farmed and cooked in abundance in Latvia, pelekie zirni aren’t often seen outside of the Baltics and, so, are a truly unique Latvian food.

A popular traditional Latvian Christmas dish is to serve grey peas with bacon. But pelekie zirni can also be found as part of a range of different home cooked meals in Latvia. You’ll often find grey peas on the side of a dish with a meaty centerpiece.

5) Speck

We mentioned just above that pelekie zirni (grey peas) are traditionally served with bacon for a proper Latvian Christmas (this dish is known as pelekie zirni ar speck). That bacon is also a uniquely Latvian food known as speck. Put simply, speck is smoked bacon made from pork belly.

Compared to the bacon often seen and enjoyed in North America, speck is a particularly fatty form of bacon. That fat, especially at Christmastime, is especially useful for rural farmers and workers who would need extra energy and insulation.

latvian drinks riga blackRead More: 10nique Things to Do in Riga, Latvia

Satisfying Latvian Soups

As we’ve already mentioned, colder nations love warm, satisfying, filling soups, and all three of the Baltic countries — Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania — have a knack for putting together some of the heartiest soups known to man. Here are three unique Latvian soups for you to try when you visit Riga, or any other town in Latvia.

6) Aukstā zupa

This is an exciting, intriguing, and unique Latvian food (although, for clarity, this dish can also be found and enjoyed in Lithuania). Auksta zupa is a soup which, at first glance, may put people off. American tourists often liken its appearance to pepto bismol.

Stick with it, however, because auksta zupa is utterly delicious. It is a sweet cold soup made from beets and kefir (hence the vibrant pink colour). To add some richness to the dish, dill and spring onions are also found in auktsa zupa.

7) Frikadeļu zupa

A favourite dish for many Latvians, frikadelu zupa is a Latvian meatball soup. As with many, many Latvian dishes, frikadelu zupa is usually served with a side of rye bread and a generous mound of sour cream.

Though the meatballs themselves (usually made from beef) are the main ingredient, frikadelu zupa also consists of carrot and potato chunks, and seasoned with pepper and the aforementioned sour cream. It’s a simple dish; hearty and beloved in Latvia.

8) Skābeņu zupa

At first glance, skabenu zupa looks an awful lot like a hearty bowl of Japanese ramen (sans the noodles). And that isn’t actually far off. This is a Latvian soup made with beef stock, sliced pork, barley, onions, potatoes, and a hard boiled egg. The bubbly broth, with meat and eggs visible on the surface, certainly is reminiscent of ramen.

Indulgent Latvian Desserts

When we think of desserts, our mind’s eye often flits to countries like France and Italy, but Latvia offers a surprisingly deep and satisfying tradition of good local desserts for you to try. It’s surprising how many countries have local desserts that feel like suspiciously kept secrets (Romania is another fine example; their desserts are wonderful). Here are three delicious Latvian desserts for you to enjoy.

9) Maizes zupa

You’ve probably noticed by now that the Latvian word zupa means soup. And so, yes, technically maizes zupa is a soup. But it is a very sweet soup and, therefore, is traditionally served as a Latvian dessert. Budding linguists will also note the similarity between maizes and maize. This is a bread soup, made from Latvian rye bread which is fed through a sieve and mixed with dried fruits, sugar, and various spices before being served cold.

10) Rye Bread Pudding

By now, you can probably see the abundance of rye bread in Latvian cuisine for yourself. Not only is rye bread served as a side in many dishes, but it is also used as an ingredient in soup and pudding. For clarity, the name ‘rye bread pudding’ is also sometimes attributed to the above maizes zupa; the Latvian name for this dish is rupjmaizes kārtojums, and it most closely resembles an English trifle.

The rye bread used in the pudding is first turned into breadcrumbs, and layers of blackcurrant jam and whipped cream are then added to create the trifle shape. You’ll often find cinnamon and dark chocolate added for even more flavour.

11) Debesmanna

This is another strikingly pink Latvian food. This time, it’s fruit which makes it pink, rather than beets. Debesmanna is a Latvian dessert made from cream of wheat and berries (usually cranberries, hence the pink colour).

For an English name, debesmanna could be called a cranberry mousse, and is made — as we mentioned — with farina (cream of wheat), cranberries, sugar, and either milk or water. What you’re then served is a sweet, vibrant pink mousse.

Iconic Latvian Drinks

Latvia is a great country to visit for people who love a good drink, and there are a few local drinks that are a must-try when you visit Latvia. You may have already come across at least one of these Latvian drinks before; they’re arguably more famous than most of the Latvian food we’ve mentioned so far.

12) Riga Black Balsam (Melnais Balzāms)

Here’s one Latvian drink that needs no introduction. Riga Black Balsam is, possibly, Latvia’s most well-known export. In case you aren’t familiar, however, Riga Black is a liqueur which comes in several flavours, the most popular of which being blackcurrant and cherry.

Riga Black Balsam works well served over ice, or as a key ingredient in a variety of different cocktails. These include a Black & Stormy, a Cherry Soda, and a Hot Lullaby. Because Riga Black Balsam also comes in an espresso flavour, you can use that to make an Espresso Martini.

Don’t forget to say cheers! Priekā

13) Kvass

Rye bread rears its lovely head yet again. Kvass is an iconic Latvian drink that can also be found right across the Baltic and Slavic nations. Kvass typically has a very low alcohol content of less than 1% (as such, it is not classified as an alcoholic beverage in most Easten European countries).

Because it is made from fermented dark rye bread, Kvass has a naturally dark colour, and it is often mixed with berries for added sweetness. Despite being incredibly popular in Russia, kvass is also a commonplace and beloved Latvian drink as well.

This post was created in collaboration with Magnetic Latvia and Traverse Events as part of the #TasteOfLatvia campaign.

You can visit Magnetic Latvia for all the information you need about Latvian travel and culture.

What To Do For a Perfect Riga City Break

We loved getting lost in the coloured art deco facades of the Centrs (central) district, enjoying the views from the top of one of the most beautiful modern libraries we’ve ever seen, delving into the fascinating ancient history and turbulent modern history of Latvia’s capital.

If that hasn’t convinced you, this is (probably) also the only city you can eat and shop for local produce in ex-German zeppelin hangars. If you’re wondering what places to visit in Riga or still need convincing that a weekend in Riga should be your next destination then look no further.

Read More: Books to Read Before You Visit The Baltics.

1) Explore the sights of Vecrīga (Old Town)

Regardless of whether you’re spending a weekend in Riga or a full week-long Riga city break, Riga Old Town is a must-visit. Think of it as a central neighbourhood situated between the Daugava River — which slices Riga in half — and the more modern Centrs (central) district.

Vecriga is the cultural and historic heart of the city; a labyrinth of cobble streets and medieval stone buildings that hide secrets of Riga’s medieval past.

All of its buildings are perfectly maintained, and are used today as homes, churches, shops, cafes, and restaurants. Given just how beautiful and enticing both the aesthetics and the history of Riga Old Town is, it is absolutely one of the most unmissable places to visit in Riga.

2) See the Freedom Monument and wander Bastejkalna Park

This is one of the most important and impressive things to see in Riga. The Freedom Monument was erected in 1935 to commemorate the Latvian soldiers who died fighting against Soviet Russia between 1918 and 1920 in what is now called the Latvian War of Independence.

The monument is a tall and powerful structure topped with a figure of liberty holding high three stars which represent the three districts of Latvia: Vidzeme, Latgale, and Courland. Around the base of the monument are smaller statues of both soldiers and civilians.

The Freedom Monument itself can be found at the edge, dead centre, of Bastejkalna Park. The park itself is a gorgeous green area of tranquillity and serenity. There are fountains, stone statues, a love-lock bridge, and a gently flowing stream. The park is one of the most picturesque parts of the city and one of the must-visit places to visit in Riga.

3) Discover the City’s History at The Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum

The Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum is less a museum and more a preserved area of Riga’s darkest past. Not far from the centre of Riga is this collection of outdoor exhibits in old wooden houses which aim to show you, in an honest and upfront manner, the atrocities which occurred in Riga during World War II.

The ghetto itself is where poor Jewish merchants in Riga once lived, before the Holocaust in Latvia. The museum honours the names of those who died, while highlighting the evils that occurred there, the actions of the resistance movement, and the real lives and homes of the Jewish people in Latvia.

While this might not be the easiest and most comfortable place to visit for a weekend in Riga, but it is arguably the most vital.

If you’d like to learn more about the holocaust then try visiting the Žanis Lipke Memorial Museum -which tells the story of Žanis Lipke and the ‘underground railroad’ he and others created to save Jews from the Nazis during the German occupation.

4) Visit Mr Pages then settle for a coffee at Robert’s Books

There are two excellent and unique bookshops in Riga’s central district: Mr Pages and Robert’s Books. Mr Pages is an impressive shop of curated books from various genres and backgrounds. You must wear gloves when handling the books, since they only get one or two copies of each book in at a time.

And they only pick the finest books of each genre, including comics and graphic novels. There are some fantastic Latvian novels in translation at Mr Pages for you to pick up and get to know the literary scene of Latvia.

Once you’ve explored this niche and beautiful bookshop, wander down the street to Robert’s Books, one of our favourite places in Riga. Robert’s Books doubles as an English language bookshop and a delightful cafe nook where you can sit, read, and get some work done. Perfect for a Riga city break.

It’s a delightful and serene bookshop-cafe and one of the best places to visit in Riga if you need an afternoon to relax during your Riga city break.

Read More: 13 Best Latvian Food, Drinks, and Desserts

5) Look for the “Town Musicians of Bremen”

Inspired by the famous Brothers Grimm tale of the same name, the Town Musicians of Bremen is a sculpture that can be found on Skārņu Street in Riga. If you’ve read the story, you know that these town musicians are four animals: a dog, a cat, and a cockerel all standing on the back of a donkey.

The statue, however, is not really an homage to the Brothers Grimm. It is, in fact, a satirical political statement, as the four animals in the sculpture are not peering into a feast, but instead peeking behind the Iron Curtain into the Soviet world. The sculpture was gifted to Riga by its sister city of Bremen, Germany, and has stood on Skārņu Street since 1990.

6) Visit World of Hat – Riga’s quirkiest museum

This museum is exactly what it sounds like: a massive collection of hats, headwear, and headdresses from across the globe. It demonstrates the geographic, cultural, religious, and ethnical diversity that should be celebrated and admired all around the world.

If you visit their website, you can see where all the different hats come from: almost every country on every continent. It’s a delightfully quirky and fun museum to visit and explore, but also one that can really teach you about the wonderful diversity in fashion and culture from every corner of the map. A delightful place and absolutely one of the most memorable and fascinating places to visit in Riga.

7) Walk over Vanšu Bridge to the National Library of Latvia

There aren’t many cities in the world today which have a library as their most dominant landmark, but that speaks to the artistic, architectural, and cultural beauty of Riga. Across the Daugava River from Riga Old Town stands an enormous asymmetrical pyramid of steel and glass which shimmers in the sunlight.

This impressive structure is the National Library of Latvia. As bookish travellers, we, of course, recommend you visit the library on principle, but beyond that it’s also a fantastic walk to the library across the epic Vanšu Bridge.

Crossing over the wide expanse of the Daugava River is like a journey into another world. And the library itself also has two floors of viewing platforms at its peak, which — if you visit on a Sunday — are open for the public to reach and explore for as long as you want without a guide.

This is the best spot to get a view of the entire centre of Riga and Riga Old Town. In that regard, it’s one of the best places to visit in Riga, especially if you’re spending a weekend there!

If you’d like to know more detailed information about the library and what you can do there, check out this amazing post by our friend Christine.

8) Enjoy breakfast or a coffee at Rocket Bean Roastery

Everyone needs a local coffee shop to relax and unwind in during a trip. Most of us pick a favourite when we’re spending a week or more somewhere. So let Rocket Bean Roastery be your go-to coffee shop during your Riga city break or even just a weekend in Riga.

There are actually two of them in central Riga, not far from one another, so pick your closest one. Rocket Bean Roastery serve the freshest, most flavourful coffee in all of Latvia. If you’re wondering what to do in Riga as a caffeine-addict, Rocket Bean Roastery will definitely be your jam.

9) Indulge in Latvian food at Lido

Lido is a very curious and unique thing in Riga. It’s a chain of cheap restaurants littered across the city which all serve authentic and traditional Latvian foods as well as local beers. If you’ve spent any time in the UK, the closest equivalent we have is Toby Carvery: a gastropub experience where you take a tray and move from server to server, picking the food you want, and then pay at the end before you eat.

Lido is much the same, but with real local food. When you get some lunch at Lido you’ll notice a total blend of locals and tourists, which is always a good sign that the food really is legitimately local and authentic. It’s good food, a slice of Latvian culture, and, as I said, cheap! One of the unmissable places to eat in on a Riga city break, for sure.

10) Visit Central Market

When we first arrived at our hotel in Riga for our Riga city break the Central Market was the very first thing recommended to us when we asked what to see in Riga. Riga Central Market is found right beside Riga Central Railway Station and Riga International Bus Terminal (where we arrived when we got to the city).

It’s very hard to miss. This market isn’t hidden away down a few backstreets; it’s hosted inside a series of massive disused zeppelin hangars, which in itself is incredible

. Once you get inside, you’ll find so much good, fresh, cheap, and wholesome local foods to sample and take home with you. Just be wary of pickpockets — Riga Central Market is pretty much the only place in the city where you’ll find them. Don’t let that deter you from one of the most unique and exciting things to do in Riga during your Riga city break.

Tips for enjoying your Riga city break

Read More: What to Eat in Vilnius

The Baltic states refer to the countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, all of which were once part of the Soviet Union. This is pretty monumental in understanding Baltic literature as a lot of it — at least what is available in English – has to do with WWII, communism, and the Soviet occupation.

That isn’t to say that Baltic literature didn’t exist pre-1940s, but once again, what is available in English is limited. Indeed, the Baltics actually have a rich literary history, especially when it comes to folklore. Myths and legends remain incredibly important in the region.

This is evident in Estonia, considered to be one of the least religious countries in the world, where most of the population don’t consider themselves religious or atheist, but celebrate the old pagan beliefs of their ancestors such as the solstices. In fact, neopaganism is on the rise in Estonia.

Additionally, Lithuania continues to celebrate its mythical heroes with several sculpture parks, such as the Hill of Witches on the Curonian Spit or the fairy tale park in Palanga. Luckily, as interest in the Baltic region grows, more and more literature is being translated, including contemporary literature. Some of which beautifully pays homage to this particular tradition of storytelling.

Great Works of Baltic Literature

It’s safe to say I could have made this entire list of baltic literature about the region’s tragic past. But there are some fantastic titles coming out of the region that wouldn’t have made it were that the case, and that seems almost criminal. Still, it was incredibly difficult to narrow down this list!

While this is a list of fiction, there’s some great non-fiction to read if you’re looking to learn more about Baltic history or about the current geopolitical climate, a great example is an upcoming work The Shadow in the East: Vladimir Putin and the New Baltic Front by Aliide Naylor.

Books Set in Estonia

Right, let’s dive into some of the best Baltic literature of all time. Starting at the top of the Baltics, here are some books set in Estonia for you to dig into first, before you visit the Baltics yourself.

The Man Who Spoke Snakish by Andrus Kivirähk

Translated by Christopher Moseley

It seems appropriate to start off with a book that is rooted in Estonian mythology. The Man Who Spoke Snakish is set in Medieval Estonia and explores the age old conflict of modernisation using magical realism and fairytales.

The Man Who Spoke Snakish is set in Medieval Estonia and explores the age old conflict of modernisation using magical realism and fairytales. The book follows Leemet, a young Estonian boy, who grew up in the forest in isolation with his mother and sister following the death of his father. But Leemet speaks snakish so able is to converse with all animals.

The conflict arises as Leetmet grapples with the crumbling of his forest home and his family’s traditional as more and more of the near villagers opt for city life, causing the forest to be cleared for housing. Amidst Leemet coming to terms with the transformation of his way of life are the stories of the animals he shares the forest with, many of whom possess their own magical abilities.

When the Doves Disappeared by Sofi Oksanen

Translated by Lola Rogers

When the Doves Disappeared follows three Estonians: freedom fighter, Roland, his opportunistic cousin, Edgar, and Juudit, the wife that Edgar has abandoned in order to save himself. We see Roland, Edgar and Juudit’s endure first in 1940 Nazi-occupied Estonia and then watch as they wrestle with past demons as their country falls under the watchful eye of Communist USSR.

This book adeptly explores the intricacies of war and oppression and the lengths people will go to in order to survive. If you’re curious about life in Estonia under both these regimes, including the transition between them, this should be top of your reading list. As an added bonus, you’ll also learn about the long standing relationship between Estonia and Finland.

Everything is Wonderful: Memories of a Collective Farm in Estonia by Sigrid Rausing

From 1993-94 Sigrid Rausing lived in Pürksi, a rural village in Noarootsi Parish on the peninsula of Estonia, carrying out anthropological fieldwork for her PhD. Despite what the title may suggest, she does not live on a farm, but in a post-collectivism society. Collectivism being the strict agrarian rules laid out by the Soviets that enabled them to take control over farms and rural production.

Until a few years prior when Estonia regained independence, Noarootsi had been a protected zone under Soviet rule. When Rausing moved there, it felt considerably dreary and derelict. Nevertheless, she sets out getting to know the locals and learn their stories. She is particularly interested in exploring memory in Estonia and how the repression of history had effected local perception of events.

Although the book is quite bleak at times, Rausing offers wonderful insight into post-Soviet and post-Collectivism life in rural Estonia, and the poverty of those left behind in smaller areas.

If you’re looking for a non-fiction book set in Estonia – or the Baltics – that explores life for the average Estonian after Soviet rule, I highly recommend giving this one a go. It is rather heartbreaking at times, but shows a side of the country that tourists rarely see.

Everything is Wonderful is based on her anthropological research, but it is a memoir and reads without an academic lens.

Estonian Life Stories

Edited and translated by Tiina Kirss; compiled by Rutt Hinrikus

This book brings together 25 stories from Estonians who survived the 20th century. Although all three Baltic countries recently celebrated 100 years of independence in 2018, the truth is that following their brief independence in 1920 from Russia (following the War of Independence which began in 1918), they were then occupied by Germany, and again by the Soviets.

Following the Depression, Estonia was under authoritarian rule from 1934 to 1938. This period is known as the Era of Silence. Sadly, their troubles were only just beginning, and in 1939, both Germany and the Soviet Union tried to annex Estonia.

For awhile, Germany did gain the greater foothold. As was happening all across, Estonia’s Jews were thrown into camps and massacred. The Estonian Jews were almost completely wiped out. Following WWII, the Soviet Union absorbed Estonia back into its embrace and began a reign of terror.

These wonderful stories of everyday Estonians doing what they can to get by provide great insight into life under foreign rule, as well as life in the Baltic states in general.

Books Set in Latvia

Latvia, and especially its capital city of Riga, is a place of stunning history and architecture, wonderful food, and some very vibrant and exciting literary history. You can find out lots more on the Latvian Literature website where you can also discover Latvian translators, illustrators, history, and more. Here are some to get you started.

DOOM 94 by Jānis Joņevs

Translated by Kaija Straumanis

Doom 94 is a coming of age novel set in the Latvian town of Jelgava (the book was originally called Jelgava 94 in Latvian) that gives us an insight into the Latvia’s youth of the 1990s.

The book explores the question of identity as the protagonist, Joņevs, his friends and family adjust to living in a newly independent nation following the collapse of the Soviet Union. And what better way to express their frustrations and individualism than through heavy metal music.

The book is a wonderful exploration of the Latvian subculture scene and everyday Latvian life during the 1990s. It’s also a must read for music lovers.

The Book of Riga

edited by Becca Parkinson & Eva Eglaja-Kristsone

This is a short little book comprised of ten short stories by Latvian authors. The book is put out by Comma Press, who had also published similar collections for several other cities.

The Book of Riga opens with a forward by former Latvian president, Vaira Vike-Freiberga, detailing a brief history of Latvia. So even those completely unfamiliar with the history, will be able to put the stories into context once reading.

Not all of the stories will be for everyone but that’s the beauty of this collection, it brings together various styles and narratives to tell the story of Riga – a city over 800 years old! The stories range from supernatural (‘The Night Shift’) to the seemingly mundane (‘The Girl Who Cut My Hair’) as we see everyday Rigans living their lives. Baltic literature at its finest.

Among The Living And The Dead: A Tale of Exile and Homecoming on the War Roads of Europe by Inara Verzemnieks

Inara Verzemniek’s grandmother, Livija, fled Latvia during WWII as the Nazis fought the Soviets over the Baltics. But Livija was separated from her sister, Ausma. Livija winds up as a refugee in America, while Ausma, and many members of their family, are exiled to Siberia.

Wanting to meet her family still living in Latvia, Inara travels to Latvia to stay with Ausma. There, she begins to unearth stories not only of Ausma’s life, but of her grandmother’s struggle, as well. This exquisite memoir about family, love and hardship deftly recounts the stories of Inara’s grandmother and grand-aunt during WWII and after as they try to piece back together their lives.

But the book also weaves in slices of Latvian life both before and during the war as Inara begins to better understand her family’s history. If you’re looking for a good non-fiction read set in Latvia and the Baltics, this is the one!

The Dogs of Riga by Henning Mankell

Translated by Laurie Thompson

I love a good murder mystery set abroad. I actually think they there an excellent way to delve into some of seedier aspects of a country’s history and culture. Which is to say this particular murder mystery, set predominantly in Riga, explores an immediately post-Soviet Latvia as it tries to heal from over 50 years of oppression.

It’s 1991 and Inspector Kurt Wallander is trying to unravel the mystery of two dead bodies washed ashore in Sweden. Wallander unexpectedly finds himself travelling to Riga – just across the Baltic Sea – as he continues to investigate the deaths.

The harder Wallander digs, the more frustrated he becomes, caught up in the never ending bureaucracy of a country trying to rebuild itself while still falling back into familiar territory. He will have to get past police surveillance, corruption and secrecy if he’s going to find out what happened!

Although it is second in the Wallender series, The Dogs of Riga reads fine as a standalone if you’re only looking for books set in the Baltics, rather than an entirely new series to dig into. I haven’t read the first one, and there there were only a handful of references to what I assume happens in the first book, but nothing that terribly distracted from the story.

Read More: Find great things to do in Riga (including our favourite bookshops) in our Riga City Guide

Books Set in Lithuania

Lithuania is a peaceful, friendly, and beautiful place of jaw-dropping Communist history waiting to be explored. Before you set out, though, here are some of the very best books set in Lithuania.

White Shroud by Antanas Škėma

Translated by Karla Gruodis

White Shroud, one of the great works of Baltic literature, is often considered required reading for Lithuanians, and for good reason. Initially the book follows protagonist Antanas Garšva as he adjusts to emigre life in 1950s New York City. There he works as an elevator operator for a popular hotel, and he struggles to fit into his new life.

As the book progresses we begin to catch glimpses of his life in Lithuania both before and after WWII and what brought him to America in the first place. White Shroud is written as a stream of consciousness, but it is never difficult to follow or engage with the narrator as he navigates between lives.

Tūla by Jurgis Kunčinas

Translated by Elizabeth Novickas

If you ever go to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, one of the places you will inevitably find yourself visiting is Užupis, an [unofficial] independent nation within the city. Today Užupis is a popular destination for tourists with a good quality of life — and as such prices have increased considerably. But that wasn’t always the case.

In 1993, when Tūla was first published, Užupis was a Bohemian enclave stuffed full of starving artists and those who were merely starving. Tūla follows an unnamed narrator as he navigates life in Užupis. The reader is introduced to a whole host of strange and mysterious residents of the city within a city. However, none grab the narrators attention so much as the beautiful Tūla, a fellow misfit of Užupis.

Vilnius Poker by Ričardas Gavelis

Translated Elizabeth Novickas

Delve into the paranoid world of Soviet-occupied Lithuania. Vytautas Vargalys is paranoid. And why shouldn’t he be after years spent in a labour camp? Now he does his best to keep to himself by working at a library – a place no one visits since knowledge is dangerous.

All around Vytautas people are dying – both physically and mentally. So he sets out to find who is destroying the people around him.

Set in Lithuania during the 1970s and 80s, Vilnius Poker perfectly embodies the rage, frustration and impotence of a people trapped under the thumb of Communism and Soviet rule. It is truly a miracle this book was even allowed to be published in 1989, even if the USSR was beginning to crumble.

The Last Book Smuggler by Birute Putrius

It seems fitting to finish this list with a book that captures the importance of books and literature to the Baltic people. This beautiful book tells the story of Ada and her grandfather, Viktoras. It is 1902, and Viktoras is a book smuggler. He risks his life to smuggle books in and around Lithuania under the watchful eye of Russia’s Red Army.

He does this because he understands the significance of keeping his language alive, despite the Russian Empire’s attempts to erase it from memory. The Last Book Smuggler demonstrates the lengths some will go to in order to protect the sanctity of language for future generations. But it is also a book about love, loss, struggle, and resistance.

This piece of Baltic literature is based on Birute Putrius’ real grandfather, who was, in fact, a book smuggler.

While we were traveling down The Baltics, we met a guy who was flying from Vilnius to Riga who didn’t realize you could just get the bus for a few hours which was about half the price.

Why Visit Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius by Bus Rather Than Flying?

Even though flying may sound quicker, as most of us know, by the time you get to the airport, get there early and then get through immigration, it’s never actually quicker. These three countries are wonderfully tiny; the stations are, for the most part, very central and drop you off centrally.

You can also get the train but we found the routes weren’t direct, were more expensive, and not as quick as just taking the bus to Riga or Vilnius. They’re also more comfortable given the wifi and free coffee bonus (see below). Of course, you can do a road trip, it’s very easy to drive in between cities and there are so many little places you can stop along the way. Driving is on the right throughout the three countries.

Read More: Books to Read Before You Visit The Baltics

What’s the best bus service in the Baltics?

We usually use Flixbus to cheaply travel around Europe until we found out that they didn’t service the Baltics area, mainly because the service of choice is Lux Bus. I genuinely wish they went to more countries because, no word of a lie (and I’m not affiliated with them), it’s the best bus service I’ve been on.

There’s a TV screen like on a long haul flight with the latest movies, there’s wifi that actually works, plug sockets, and comfortable seats. They even have a tea and coffee machine onboard which is a godsend for those longer trips.

Aside from being slightly cramped, which is pretty standard these days, I was completely happy on the bus journey through the Baltics. We ended up using them to go on to Warsaw as well, even though there were other options. Their route stops there unfortunately but while you’re traveling East Europe definitely hit up Lux Express.

Where is the Tallinn Bus Station?

The Tallinn Bus Station is actually quite a walk away from the city centre so if you’re short on time or have a lot of luggage it’d definitely be worth getting a taxi (about five euro). Otherwise, it’s a 30-minute walk. But there are plenty of coffee shops and a mall along the way (plus the famous Hotel Viro – KGB headquarters) if you wanted to break the journey up.

Address: Lastekodu 46, 10144 Tallinn, Estonia

You can also take the tram (around 90¢) to the station ‘104B towards Kostivere‘, it stops four minutes away from the station and takes the journey to 18 minutes total.

You can buy a ticket from the driver at the front of the tram. Or the Balti Jaam Bus 121 for the same price and time. There are other options so just use Google Maps to find the most convenient tram or bus depending on your time and location.

What’s nearby?

There’s a shop within the station for getting some quick snacks or coffee before you hop on the bus, there are also toilets, otherwise, the amenities mentioned above are about fifteen minutes walk from the station. There’s also a really cool old bus outside which is worth photographing!

Best Hotels in Tallinn

Savoy Boutique Hotel — Not to be mistaken with the famous London hotel, this charming Art Deco spot is in an ideal location close to the attractions and features a fantastic Estonian restaurant.

Marta’s Guesthouse — Tallinn’s only vegan hotel and cafe set in a traditional house with a cosy atmosphere. It’s close to Old Town and is known for hosting musicians and writers and other inspiring folks. They generally, encourage a creative atmosphere and are constantly restoring the old building using the funds from guests. A very memorable place to stay in Tallinn.

Where is the Riga Bus Station?

The Riga Bus Station is about a twelve-minute walk from Old Town so is very convenient. There are toilets and some small shops inside. Bear in mind this is one of the parts of town where pick-pocketing is a bit of an issue so make sure you have all your items secure before you get going.

You can catch the tram (2 mins walk from the station) number 5 (Kengarags) or 7 (Iļģuciems) into Old Town if you’d rather not walk. You can also catch an uber.

Address: Latgale Suburb, Riga, LV-1050, Latvia

What’s nearby?

You’ll exit the station right next to the Old Central Market where you can see local life in action or grab some street food, the market is set within old military hangers so it’s also just very impressive to look at.

Read More: 10 Amazing Things to Do on a Riga City Break

Best Hotels in Riga

Grand Poet Hotel: By far our favourite hotel in Riga, the breakfasts are insanely good (you can have breakfast champagne!) and having a hearty meal for free every day ended up saving us a lot of money. It’s in a great location for exploring Old Town and the newer parts of the city being right in the middle and has a 24-hour gym, and pool/sauna facilities.

Check out our full review of our stay at Grand Poet Hotel

Where is the Vilnius Bus Station?

It’s an easy walk from the bus station to Vilnius Old Town, it takes eleven minutes. You can also catch the 89 bus to and from the station (Rotušė is the stop at the station and Bazilijonų st. if you’re going from the station to town) or grab an uber.

What’s nearby?

Honestly, very little! Although, they have some restaurants, small shops and a toilet within the station if you need refreshments.

Address: Sodų g. 22, Vilnius 03211

Best Hotels in Vilnius

Shakespeare Boutique Hotel — One for of us literary travellers, located in Old Town attached to the fantastic Shakespeare restaurant, you’ll find the Hemingway room, the Oscar Wilde room, piles of books, writing desks, and opulent decoration.

Artagonist Art Hotel — Bursting with art and sculptures from local artists, this new and reasonably priced hotel is ideally located in Old Town.

Read More: What to Eat in Vilnius

Tips For Travelling in The Baltics

• You usually have to pay for public toilets in The Baltics, around ¢30
• You can use the euro (€) through all three countries
• English is widely spoken but it’s always nice to learn a few phrases
• Lithuania is the cheapest of three countries
• Caffeine is a Baltic coffee chain with good open wifi and toilets, they’re everywhere
• We love using Omio to book our trains and buses around Europe, if you use our referral code (jessie8m4s1c) when you book you’ll get €10 off your total price and so do we!

Christianity simply because it’s the most popular religion amongst the people in Lithuania — especially the older generations. Basketball is played, watched, and loved with fervour across the country. Beer — most alcohol, in fact — is drunk an awful lot by almost everyone all the time.

And bread is a staple part of the Lithuanian diet. So much so that Lithuania has its own unique way of preparing a local bread simply known as ‘black bread’. Because it comes out black. Lithuanians are a very clear and literal people.

But, beyond black bread (which we will cover in detail) there’s a massive range of exciting traditional Lithuanian food to try when you visit Vilnius. For example, Lithuania is an agricultural country; lots of mushrooms, milk, and honey. Much of the food is based around root vegetables which grow easily in the cold climate.

The food culture of Lithuania is rich and creative indeed, far more than most people expect it to be before they visit Lithuania. Let’s take a look at some of the most unique and delicious Lithuanian food.

Lithuanian Meals

Cepelinai (Potato Dumplings)

A staple Vilnius food. The original word for these dumplings was didzkukuliai, but the name slowly an unofficially changed to cepelinai during the course of the 20th century because of their physical resemblance to zeppelin airships (cepelinai is pronounced more like ‘zeppeliny’).

But what are they? Cepelinai are similar in texture to Chinese bao dumplings, with a soft outer shell made of potato instead of dough. Inside, again similar to bao, they are filled with ground meat — or sometimes cheese or mushrooms.

That makes them ideal for carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans alike! They’re an incredibly hearty food, meat-based and carb-heavy, and as such are typically eaten as a main meal with various sides.

Cepelinai were popular during Soviet times as there wasn’t much meat but plenty of potatoes around. Although they’re immensely time-consuming to make ad can go wrong very easily, it was a time for families to come and do something together and enjoy quality time without political issues.

They became a kind of national food when food kiosks rose in number and popularity as they could be made in large quantities and stored easily for a long period You can find cepelinai at any traditional Lithuanian restaurant.

Kibinai (Savoury Pastries)

Kibinai are going to be incredibly familiar in sight, taste, and texture to any British person or anyone who has visited the UK. That’s because they’re essentially identical to Cornish pasties.

They became a staple dish in Lithuania thanks to the Kariate people, an ethnically Turkic group of people who have lived in Lithuania for hundreds of years. These pasties are big, baked in a crusty, crunchy shell of pastry and filled with whatever meats and vegetables you like.

Typically you’ll find them full of chicken, beef, mushroom, potato, or onion. While not strictly a Vilnius food, they’re really popular in the old capital of Trakai, which is now a small castle town outside of Vilnius. In Trakai, you’ll find bikinai at almost every Lithuanian restaurant.

Lithuanian Soups

Saltibarsciai (Pink Soup)

Served seasonally, this beetroot and kefir soup is accompanied by hardboiled eggs and boiled potatoes. It’s a Vilnius food that Lithuanians are exceptionally passionate about. One of the more unique things about it is that it’s served cold, as a traditional means of cooling down on those rare hot Lithuanian summer days.

The beetroot causes it to turn a pink that often reminds American tourists of Pepto Bismol, to the laughter of locals in Vilnius. While at first the idea of a cold pink soup might seem a little off-putting, its full of delicate flavours and is incredibly soothing and wholesome.

If there’s one thing that sums up the personalities of Lithuanian people so perfectly, it’s the fact that every family has their own recipe and each person think theirs is the correct one. They won’t listen to, and will often be enraged and disgusted by, any other family’s tweak to the formula.

It’s hilarious to watch their impassioned arguing, which is (mostly) all in good fun. Here, by the way, is one of the many possible recipes for pink soup, in case you’d like to cook it yourself. But if you don’t, every traditional Lithuianian restaurant in Vilnius serves their own unique saltibarsciai recipe.

Forest Mushroom Soup

Mushroom picking is integral to the culture of Lithuania. In fact, when we were asked if we, UK citizens who also have a home nation covered in mushrooms, had ever been mushroom-picking, even the younger Lithuanians among us were truly shocked by our news that we’d never been mushroom-picking ourselves.

When the mushroom-picking season comes around in Lithuania, it’s best to avoid telling your neighbours about your chosen picking spots in order to avoid arguments and to make sure you have time to pick plenty so that you can dry them ready for the traditional Christmas eve dishes.

In fact, picking your own mushrooms is so important that, rather than serving store-bought mushroom, it’s better not to serve them at all. You picked them yourself or got them from a family member of nothing.

Read More: The best things to see, eat, and do in Riga, Latvia

Lithuanian Snacks

Dried Apple Cheese

We should be clear: this is not actually cheese at all. It’s a big lump of dried apple, the kind you find in those super-healthy snack bars that are a poor substitute for chocolate.

But these lumps of dried apple are really delicious, and cheap, too! There’s not much else to say about them, though. They’re just a big lump of dried apple, flattened into a pancake, served as a dessert or bought as a healthy snack from the local stores. While you may not find apple cheese at a Lithuanian restaurant, you will find it at most local stores in Vilnius.

Fresh Cucumbers with Honey

Beehives are also an integral part of Lithuanian culture, and the combination of fresh cucumber with fresh honey is a simple yet traditional Lithuanian food. Many people keep bees in Lithuania and if you share part of your hive with a friend for them to create their own then that person becomes one of your closest friends – akin to a brother or sister.

Black Bread

As we mentioned earlier, black bread is the absolute staple of traditional Lithuanian food. It makes up the very backbone of their society, like rice in Japan or hummus in the Middle East. It’s found in almost every Lithuanian restaurant and it is absolutely delicious. But what is black bread?

Black break is rye bread, traditionally made by farmers’ wives. And this is a very prestigious position held by farmers’ wives, in fact, which demonstrates the sheer strength and power of both their bodies and their position in society.

They beat the dough for hours and hours, and eventually the rye bread is fermented, which gives it an incredible longevity and its black colour. Speaking personally for a second, I will eat anything if it’s fermented or pickled. I hate cucumber but if you pickle it into a gherkin I’ll devour it.

Black bread is, likewise, easy to demolish. It’s soaked in goodness and absolutely delectable. If there is one traditional Lithuanian food you need to try, it’s black bread.

Make your own garlic bread the Lithuanian way

Having black bread is only half the meal. There’s even more to this traditional Lithuanian food. In true Lithuanian fashion, where everything is done by hand and requires a little muscle, black bread is usually turned into garlic bread by you, the diner, by taking a small piece of garlic and grinding it against the black bread until it coats it.

Like buttering bread, but with your own might rather than a butter knife. It might seem crude, but it’s a lot of fun and a better way to eat garlic bread than anything the French do. Not only is black bread found in any Lithuanian restaurant, so is the garlic to go with it. It’s the most fun you can have with Vilnius food.

Read More: How to Travel the Baltics: Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania

Lithuanian Drinks

Three Nines (Trejos Devynerios)

What is now drank as a liquor was traditionally a medicine from the 16th and 17th centuries, prescribed by doctors for all sorts of ailments from colds and joint pains to more serious conditions.

Of course, it is just a liquor but one that’s bursting with nutrients (sort of) since it is infused with 26 different herbs to give it an incredibly complex flavour. But, yes, three nines add up to 27, not 26. The twenty-seventh flavour comes from the liquor’s storage kegs. Clever name, no?

Rhubarb Wine

Like black bread and pink soup, rhubarb wine is exactly what it says on the tin (or glass). It’s wine made from fermenting rhubarb instead of grapes. While this might sound strange and discomfiting at first, it’s honestly soothing and tastes like something from your childhood.

As a kid I would pretend to be sick so that I could drink just a single spoonful of Calpol, and rhubarb wine has that same warming, taste of childhood. It’s a sweet and lovely wine and one of the more delightfully unusual things about Lithuania. While not found at every Lithuanian restaurant, rhubarb wine is found at a lot of Vilnius bars.

Kvass

What do you use to wash down black bread, the most traditional Lithuanian food? Why, black bread beer, of course! Kvass is a Lithuanian beverage made from black bread, and it has a surprisingly low alcohol content of around 1%. It’s a staple drink across Lithuania and beyond.

In fact, its reach has extended so far across Siberia that you’ll find it served in bars in Northeastern China! Kvass, like its big brother black bread, is utterly divine, and a refreshing beverage indeed. You’ll find it poured at almost every Lithuanian restaurant.

Note: We experienced this informative food tour with Vilnius Urban Adventures taken by our wonderful guide Viljia, we’d highly recommend taking the tour if you visit the city as we visited places we simply wouldn’t have found otherwise.

We were hosted in Vilnius by Tinggly while staying in their blogger house, their slogan is ‘give experiences not stuff’ and after this wonderful experience, we wholeheartedly agree!

Allow the winding streets of Old Town to carry you further away from the river until you reach Bastion Hill: a central park which divides the Old Town from the baroque buildings which define the centre of Riga. At the edge of Bastion Hill is The Freedom Monument, a dedication to those who lost their lives in the fight for Latvian independence.

Turn left at the monument and walk the avenue for a single block, then you’ll find yourself at the doors of the Grand Poet Hotel, a stunning and tranquil building in the beating heart of Riga. Staying at the five-star Grand Poet means feeling the literary and poetic blood of Latvia flowing through you. Also, the gym is nice and quiet.

Read More: The Best Things to Do on Your Trip to Riga.

Review: The Grand Poet Hotel

Refined luxury with a literary spin is the atmosphere felt when you enter the Grand Poet Hotel. The lobby of any hotel is a vital first impression, and the Grand Poet’s lobby does not disappoint, as its decor soothes you into just the right kind of excited calm that you want when staying at a hotel like this one.

The reception staff are proud of their city, and more than happy to share with you all the secrets of Riga. During our stay, we were informed of all the best bookshops and cafes to hunt down in Riga, as well as where to enjoy the true local delicacies and how best to enjoy the incredible National Library of Latvia (which is found just across the river from Old Town).

Read More: Books to Read Before You Visit The Baltics.

The Rooms

While it’s not overflowing with literary themes, the Grand Poet is more subtle than that. The hotel has little nods here and there to writing, reading, and the beauty of the written word, including ‘do not disturb’ signs which ask visitors if they are the muse you’ve been searching for – a nice touch!

The rooms are perfectly-sized for couples staying for a few days, with the most luxurious beds we’ve ever had the pleasure of sleeping on!

The showers as well; after a week of travelling through the Baltics, it was a heavenly experience to enjoy such a blissful shower.

The rooms feature a velvety wingback chair to sink into for an hour of reading, and a writing desk which, coupled with the romantic atmosphere and decor, is the ideal inspiration for any budding writer who might feel struck by the urge to pen a story or a poem of an evening during their stay.

The Hedonic Spa

Hedonic is certainly the word! The basement spa and gym of the Grand Poet Hotel is a fantastic place to work out all your stresses and exhaustion after a day of exploring Riga.

The swimming pool is perfect for a relaxed swim or a few intense lengths. And, once you’re done there, you’ll find a hot tub with some powerful jets that feel like a massage all on their own.

There are both saunas and steam rooms to soothe yourself in as well, and showers that will help wash away the last of the muscle pains we had developed during our weeks of travelling.

The gym is small and quiet; we stayed for three nights and every evening I had it all to myself. Treadmills, bikes, free weights, everything you need to work out your stresses and keep healthy while living such a hedonistic life in a soothing hotel.

You can easily spend an hour alone in the gym refreshing yourself before heading out to see the sights of Riga or to wind down at the end of a long and exhilarating day of discovery.

The Breakfast

Oh, the breakfast! Honesty, we don’t always travel this luxuriously so perhaps we were more overwhelmed than most guests. But this was the finest, most exciting breakfast experience of our lives. Champagne and Bloody Marys with your croissants and omelettes? Yes, please.

There is a massive range of cheeses and meats, with various mustards and sauces to combine, as well as porridge, toast, full English breakfasts, and even fish. It was honestly overwhelming, an absolute treat, and our favourite part of the entire Grand Poet Hotel experience.

The breakfast room was abuzz every morning with people speaking every European language while they excitedly stacked their plates with meats and omelettes, and generously topped one another up with the best champagne or a cup of fresh coffee.

The breakfast offered at the Grand Poet Hotel is reason enough to stay all on its own.

They also have their own Grand Poet Cafe, an elegant spot that’s perfect for getting lost in a book with a coffee and pastry. You’ll also find the restaurant Snob and Bar Snob each featuring an extensive menu of food and drink (including fabulous cocktails).

In Summary

The Grand Poet Hotel truly makes its guests feel like bohemian ladies and gentlemen during their stay. The food, decor, spa, and furnishings all work together to create a design that could truly be called poetic.

For people who prioritise feeling good and healthy during their hotel stay – guests who are wanting a good swim, a quiet gym, and a diverse breakfast – that’s exactly what the Grand Poet Hotel delivers. If you want a hotel experience that is truly conducive to both reading and writing, in-between all your daily wanderings of Riga, this is the hotel you’ve been looking for.

You can book on their website or through Booking.com.