Discover The Balkans – Books and Bao https://booksandbao.com Translated Literature | Bookish Travel | Culture Thu, 04 Apr 2024 16:15:08 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://booksandbao.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Logo-without-BG-150x150.jpg Discover The Balkans – Books and Bao https://booksandbao.com 32 32 9 Things to Do in Bucharest: Romania’s Historic Capital https://booksandbao.com/things-to-do-in-bucharest-romania/ Sun, 01 Jan 2023 08:49:00 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=8827 Bucharest as we know it today was officially founded in 1459. In the years that followed, Romania has been subject to Ottoman, Hungarian, Russian, and French influence, all of which is worn by Bucharest’s architecture.

Home to Vlad the Impaler (the man behind the legend of Dracula) and a city so recently subject to decades of brutal communist rule, Bucharest is an almost overwhelmingly fascinating place. As such, there are more than a few unmissable things to do in Bucharest.

things to do in bucharest

From Russian churches to brutalist communist buildings; from the most elegant and beautiful bookstore to a medieval farmer’s market and more, here are the best things to do in Bucharest when you visit Romania’s capital.

Everything mentioned here was shown and provided to us by Romanian Thrills. Check them out for unique tours of Romania’s history and nature.

What to Do in Bucharest

Palace of Parliament

For the past two hundred years or so, Romanian leaders have been big fans of calling Bucharest’s grander buildings ‘palaces’, and you’ll see more evidence of that below. The first and most important of these palaces, and one of the most unmissable Bucharest attractions, is the Palace of Parliament.

he Palace of the Parliament  in Bucharest, Romania

Bucharest’s Palace of Parliament is a truly fascinating building which, to this day, holds the record for being the world’s heaviest building, built as it is almost entirely from marble. It’s not the world’s largest building, but it is substantial given that it’s a government building larger than the UK’s Houses of Parliament.

Construction of the Palace of Parliament was ordered by former fascist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, a communist leader who held power in Romania for 24 years, from 1965 to 1989, when he was overthrown in a people’s revolution.

When you visit Bucharest, you’ll see that one of the main features of the Palace of Parliament is an enormous balcony from which Ceausescu planned to address the people as they filled the Bulevardul Unirii (more on that in a moment).

However, Ceausescu was killed before he ever got to use his balcony. In fact, the first person to ever address a crowd from that balcony was Michael Jackson, in a moment which holds the world record for the most people fainting in a crowd!

There is so much to be fascinated by when it comes to the Palace of Parliament that it demands to be one of the best things to do in Bucharest and one of the most unmissable Bucharest attractions.

Read More: A Guide to Brasov Old Town

Bulevardul Unirii (Union Boulevard)

When you first visit Bucharest and arrive in the city centre, it’s difficult to avoid feeling a chill at the sight of Bulevardul Unirii, one of the most epic but somewhat unsettling Bucharest attractions.

This boulevard was carved through Romania’s medieval capital by Nicolae Ceausescu during his time in power. More than 3km in length, it connects multiple squares in the city and leads people to the Palace of Parliament.

Bulevardul Unirii (Union Boulevard)

There is so much fascinating history tied to this enormous boulevard.

Like, for example, how capital-C Communist leaders of the 20th century, Ceausescu included, abolished religion in their countries, and so churches that sat where the avenue was planned were either hidden by the construction of brutalist tower blocks, or literally moved out of the way in a genius feat of engineering that involved hydraulic lifts and rail tracks.

This incredible move was spearheaded by civil engineer Eugeniu Iordăchescu, a secretly religious man who wanted to protect the city’s Christian heritage.

Union Boulevard’s construction was begun under the false pretence that the earthquake of 1977 had destroyed so much of the city and so it should all be rebuilt, starting with the boulevard.

In fact, this was simply a convenient excuse to tear down what Ceausescu wanted to be rid of in order to make way for his boulevard, on which his people would march and parade in his honour.

There are no Bucharest attractions, not even the Palace of Parliament, which demonstrate the impact of capital-C Communism in Romania like the Bulevardul Unirii, which makes seeing and walking along the boulevard one of the most important things to do in Bucharest.

Read More: Best Restaurants & Cafes in Bucharest

Manuc’s Inn

What was once the oldest operating hotel in Bucharest will be again, soon. For now, Manuc’s Inn is operating as a restaurant of traditional Romanian food. The history of power and wealth within Romania is inextricably tied to its merchant class. The traders who had the money also had the power, and Armenian entrepreneur Manuc Bei was one of them.

manucs inn bucharest romania

Manuc’s Inn, hidden just away from Union Boulevard, was once the most vital and integral part of Bucharest’s economy, where traders would come to stay, eat, and drink. It’s also a stunning building of wooden balconies, staircases, pillars, and even wooden cobblestones.

manucs inn bucharest romania

It might look fancy, but actually Manuc’s Inn serves a relatively affordable cuisine of traditional Romanian food, including staple Romanian dishes like Romanian ciorba (a soup, the roots of which can be traced through the Middle East and all the way to India) and mici (skinless sausages that are some of the best Romanian food you’ll ever try), and papanasi (a fried donut-like pastry topped with sour cream and sour jam).

If you’re looking for the best Romanian food, Manuc’s Inn is a great place to get it.

Ceausescu Mansion

At a time when Romanians were living in dire poverty in a closed-borders nation (think North Korea today), its fascist leader Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena were living in a villa of extravagant wealth and decadence (again, think North Korea today).

One of the most important things to do in Bucharest is explore the Ceausescu Mansion for yourself, in order to get a real sense of the recent history of this incredible nation and see the eerie disconnect between the brutalist buildings of matchbox apartments and this splendid but strangely clinical former home of their leader.

The Ceausescu Mansion is enormous; and it bears a striking resemblance to the aristocratic homes and palaces of the French and British gentry of the 17th and 18th centuries. Elaborate and colourful frescoes and mosaics adorn the walls; the furniture is made from the finest materials and detailed with filigree and fine affectations. Chandeliers and sconces adorn the ceilings and walls.

From the perspective of an art and architecture lover, seeing this villa is one of the best things to do in Bucharest, but more than that it really serves to highlight the divide between the 1% and the 99% in Bucharest during the 70s and 80s. When you visit Bucharest, don’t miss out on seeing the Ceausescu Mansion.

Read More: 10 Books to Read Before you Visit Romania

Stavropoleos Monastery

We’ve covered a lot of brutalism and dark history in our discussion of things to do in Bucharest, and of course there’s a good reason for that and it’s all especially valuable for understanding the dark modern history of Romania. But what to do in Bucharest for people who want to journey further back in time?

stavropoleos monastery bucharest romania

Well, the first stop on our more historic Bucharest attractions is the Stavropoleos Monastery. Found at the corner of Strada Postei and Strada Stavropoleos in Bucharest Old Town, this fascinating and beautiful little monastery sticks out like a stone thumb.

Romania has a fascinating architectural history, inspired by Ottomans, Hungarians, Russians, and more recently Parisian architecture. Stavropoleos, however, sits on a street of French Renaissance buildings and yet is one of the few truly neo-Romanian buildings in the city.

stavropoleos bucharest romania

While you can see many influences on its architecture and design, this little monastery is still very much its own unique kind of building, and when you go inside you’ll see that every single inch of the walls and ceilings is painted with frescoes of saints and biblical imagery.

Look closely and you’ll see that many saints’ faces have been scratched away. This was done by Ottoman invaders. The faces that are left are of those who appear in the Qur’an as well as the Bible and were thus safe from defacement.

When you visit Bucharest and explore Bucharest attractions both modern and medieval, it’s difficult to avoid seeing evidence of struggle, destruction, and a tug-o-war for control, whether that be by communists, Ottomans, or Romans.

The history of Romania is a history of struggle, and Bucharest is all the more amazing to explore for it. It’s the reason why visiting places like the Stavropoleos Monastery are such vital things to do in Bucharest.

Russian Church of St. Nicholas

To really feel the weight of foreign influence and the dynamism of architecture in Bucharest, you have to visit the Russian Church of St. Nicholas, found just off University Square in central Bucharest.

russian church bucharest romania

Standing for more than 100 years and only slightly predating the Russian Revolution, seeing this church isn’t a far cry from setting foot in Moscow’s Red Square. I mean, actually, it kind of is, but the tone and the authenticity is there.

Russian influence in Romania didn’t begin with 20th century communism – it goes far further back than that, and seeing this fascinating Russian church is one of the best things to do in Bucharest to really see that first-hand.

The difference in architecture in the churches of Bucharest is fascinating enough without even looking at other types of buildings, and this church is certainly one of the most unique in Romania’s capital city.

Read More: A Guide to Sighisoara: The Medieval Heart of Romania

National History Museum

You might remember that, at the very beginning of this guide to things to do in Bucharest, we discussed how branding buildings with the word ‘palace’ has been common practice since the royal times.

The French influences which started this was known as ‘la belle epoque’ and is the reason Bucharest became known as Little Paris and has their own version of the Arc de Triomphe. As a direct result of this craze, what’s now the National History Museum was once the Postal Services Palace.

Today, however, this stunning building – located on Victory Avenue (once the most fashionable street in the city, where residents would go to show off their fashion and ensure that they remain talking points amongst their friends) – is where you’ll find Bucharest’s National History Museum.

While Romania’s history is often tied tightly to 20th-century communism, the legacy of Vlad The Impaler (aka Vlad Tepes or Vlad Dracula), and influence from the empires that passed through, settled, and waged war in Romania, the pre-Roman history of Romania belongs to a local people known as the Dacians, a Thracian tribe. In the National History Museum, remarkable artefacts of the Dacian people can be seen and admired.

As you can by now see, we’ve gently delved deeper and deeper into Romania’s past – from the recent communists, to the Russians and the Ottomans, and now to the pre-Roman Dacians.

The best things to do in Bucharest are the things that paint a vivid picture of Romania’s diverse and patchwork history, and visiting this building, one of the most stunning Bucharest attractions, is one of them.

Carturesti Carusel

History aside, what else is there to do when you visit Bucharest, especially artful and modern things? Perhaps the most beautiful and artistically significantly of Bucharest attractions is the Carturesti Carusel.

Every time we visit a new city, we at Books and Bao, unsurprisingly, track down and give a spotlight to the best bookshops in that city. When you visit Bucharest, you’ll find that this city’s best bookshop is Carturesti Carusel.

What was once the headquarters of the Chrissoveloni Bank is now a stunning, warm, and beautiful Bucharest bookstore (banks always seem to get the best buildings – can’t imagine why). On the top floor of this bookstore is a bistro, while the basement houses a multimedia centre.

The three floors in-between are home to seemingly endless shelves of books, and, on the first floor, there’s even a gallery dedicated to contemporary art.

Carturesti Carusel is a truly staggering place to visit. Brightly lit, it has a Christmas vibe to it, with white painted columns and archways, wooden floors, and wide-open spaces where visitors can browse and enjoy some peaceful reading.

Read More: 5 Essential Day Trips from Brasov

Obor Market

In much of Europe and the West, shopping for food in supermarkets is the norm today, while visiting farmer’s markets is something of a luxury – or, at least, something a minority of people do.

When you visit Bucharest, however, you’ll see that farmer’s markets are much more commonly frequented and so are very much vibrant spaces filled with delicious goodies to try.

Supermarkets are pricier so, if you’re looking to save some money, heading to the local farmer’s market is a perfect way to interact with local people.

obor farmers market bucharest romania

Obor Market is the best example of a Romanian farmer’s market. Open 365 days a year, with some indoor and other outdoor stalls, Obor Market is where you’ll find mostly local and a few imported staple cooking ingredients and Romanian food.

There’s an overwhelming amount of pork here, cut up and ready to buy in every form you can imagine. There are also fruit and veg stalls, a corridor of fishmongers, as well as shops and stalls that deal in spices and teas.

obor farmers market bucharest romania

Beyond the Romanian food that you can take home to cook with, you’ll also find at Obor Market a place to sit and enjoy mici – the skinless sausages found on the menu of Manuc’s Inn. Here, they’re cheaper and just as delicious.

It’s said that mici, a staple of Romanian food, were invented by accident when a chef ran out of skin for his sausages (and they’re far better for this unplanned development). It’s imperative that you eat your mici with the provided mustard, to really get the full experience.

Read More: 10 Amazing Places to Visit in The Balkans

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10 Interesting Places to Visit in the Balkans https://booksandbao.com/places-to-visit-in-the-balkans/ Thu, 29 Jul 2021 14:19:01 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=17658 The Balkans – a geographic region in southeastern Europe- are an underrated destination, though gaining popularity over the last decade with tourists. Greece, Montenegro, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Albania, Macedonia, Bulgaria, and Romania make up this region, named for the Balkan mountains in Bulgaria.

While many might remember this region as one of ethnic strife and civil war, others recall the charming mountain villages, monasteries, and medieval fortresses. The Balkans are known for their natural beauty, with vast numbers of forested hiking trails, waterfalls, and idyllic landscapes.

visit the balkans

There’s also traditional folklore and music as well as cultural festivals and local food and drink.

Here are some of the best places to visit in the Balkans, along with the best things to do in a day or two in each place. Many cruise ships now visit this region – whether ocean or river – and I’d highly suggest adding some time at the beginning or end of the cruise to explore the region by land. 

1) Corfu, Greece

Corfu is an island off the northwestern coast of Greece, near the border with Albania. It has a rich history in both mythology and fact; it’s known as the place where Jason and Medea got married, as an instigator in the Peloponnesian War (due to an alliance with Athens over Corinth), and as a Roman colony under Octavian.

corfu

19th-century royalty spent time on Corfu. Empress Elisabeth of Austria, known as Sisi, built her famed Achilleion home here and Mon Repos was the home of the Greek royal family and birthplace of Prince Philip. Corfu was occupied by the Italians during the Second World War.

Visitors to Corfu can visit the Pantokrator Monastery and Angelokastro fortress, which both date to the Byzantine rule, and the Old Town of Corfu, which has significant Venetian influence and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Other important sites include Palaiopolis, the ruins of the ancient city of Korkyra, Kardaki Temple, the Temple of Artemis, Palaio Frourio (Old Fortress), and neo Frourio (New Fortress).

2) Crete, Greece

Crete is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean and the largest Greek island It is located south/southeast of Athens on the Mediterranean/North African climate line. It has a varied landscape, with white sandy beaches and the rare pink beaches of Crete to rugged mountains across the islands and offers a variety of activities making it one of the best Greek islands for honeymooners.

crete

The island was settled by Neolithic tribes who later became the Minoans. Other inhabitants over the millennia include the Myceneans, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans. Crete is most famous for its Minoan palaces including Knossos but has plenty of other exciting things to see and do. Visitors to Crete should see the old town of Chania, which boasts Venetian architecture and ruins of the Venetian city walls.

The old Jewish quarter is home to several restaurants, bars, shops, and hotels. Outside of the city, travellers can take a White Mountains safari tour which explores the caves and gorges of the limestone mountains as well as the traditional food of the region, or a boat tour along the coast of Crete.

3) Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities and home to one of the most important prehistoric cultures in Europe – the Vinca culture. They evolved here in the 6th millennium BCE. The city is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, a location of strategic importance, and strife, over its history.

belgrade

It was part of several empires before being the capital of Serbia in 1841, then was the capital of the former Yugoslavia from 1918 until Serbia and Montenegro split in 2006. Belgrade has been part of over 100 wars, razed to the ground 44 times, and bombed five.

The Kalemegdan, or the historical core of the city, remains on the right bank, which is where you can visit Stari Grad and Nikola Pasic Square, as well as the Belgrade Fortress. Belgrade is considered one of the five most creative cities in the world, with a lot of cultural events and festivals to attend.

belgrade national museum

The best museum to visit is the National Museum, which has over 400,000 pieces of art. The Ethnographic Museum showcases the culture of the former Yugoslavia.

4) Ljubljana, Slovenia

Ljubljana is located in an alluvial plain along a trade route between the Adriatic and the Danube and was under Habsburg rule until the formation of the former Yugoslavia.

Ljubljana has been the capital and largest city of Slovenia since its creation in 1991. While we sometimes think of Slovenia as being far from western Europe, in reality, Ljubljana is only 200 miles south of Munich and 150 miles east of Venice.

ljubljana

The main attractions in Ljubljana are the medieval castle, with its viewing tower and unique architectural features, Preseren Square and the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, and the Town Hall. Like many other cities that span rivers, Ljubljana has some unique bridges, including the Dragon Bridge which is one of the most beautiful examples of Vienna Secession style. 

5) Lake Bled, Slovenia

Lake Bled is located in the Julian Alps just an hour from Ljubljana. Often considered one of the most picturesque places in the country, Lake Bled is a small yet delightfully packed place to visit. Some of the popular attractions include Bled Island and the Assumption of Mary Church (don’t forget to pull the wishing bell rope), and Bled Castle, high atop a cliff overlooking the lake.

lake bled

Many come to Lake Bled for outdoor pursuits, like biking or hiking. Circumnavigating the lake – 6km – is easily done in an afternoon, and anyone who does this is certainly allowed a large slice of Bled Cream Cake, which is still made to the original recipe. 

6) Bucharest, Romania

Bucharest is the capital city of Romania, located in the southern part of the country. It’s well known for its architecture, which is a mix of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau, Bauhaus and Art Deco, communist and modern. Bucharest is one of the fastest-growing cities in Europe, even after much of the city was damaged in the war.

The city was first mentioned as the Citadel of Bucaresti, which was home to Vlad III the Impaler, or Vlad Dracula (born in Sighisoara, Romania) – the inspiration for Count Dracula.

bucharest

In the heart of the city is Lake Cișmigiu, which is surrounded by Cișmigiu Gardens. Other popular attractions include the Palace of the Parliament, built in 1980 by communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, which is the largest parliament building in the world, and the Romanian Athenaeum.

Bucharest is often called Little Paris, or Paris of the East, and has some very Parisian influences, especially in the city’s architecture.

7) Peles Castle, Romania

Peles Castle is a Neo-Renaissance castle in the Carpathian Mountains of Romania, in Sinaia, about 90 minutes from Bucharest. It’s located along a medieval route linking Transylvania with Wallachia, two regions of the country, and was built in the late 19th century for King Carol I, or Charles I, who was the king under whom Romania gained its independence.

peles castle

The first royal building in the area was a royal hunting preserve and summer palace, later known as Peles Castle. Other buildings include Pelisor Castle, Foisor Hunting Lodge, guard chambers, stables, and a power plant. Peles Castle was built as a grand palatial alpine castle in classical European styles.

It was seized by the Communist-era dictator and closed for about 20 years at the end of the regime. Today it is on lease from the royal family and receives around 500,000 visitors annually. The most notable rooms are the Hall of Honour, the Imperial Suite, the Grand Armory, the Playhouse, the Turkish Parlour, and the Moorish Salon.

Read More: Amazing Day Trips from Brasov, Romania

8) Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik is a city on the Adriatic coast of Croatia; it’s a prominent tourist destination and cruise port as well as being one of the most iconic UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Eastern Europe. The city dates back to the 7th century when it was a Byzantine outpost, however, it was soon fully independent and relying on maritime trade for its prosperity.

Dubrovnik suffered extensive damage in a 1667 earthquake and later during the Croatian War of Independence in 1991, but recovered and rebuilt to become a popular filming location by the mid-2000s. Dubrovnik is most well known for its city walls, medieval city centre, fortresses, and palaces, many of which have appeared in Game of Thrones.

dubrovnik

There are legends abounding in regard to famous faces that have spent time in Dubrovnik, and the city also hosts a multi-day festival to celebrate its patron saint, Saint Blaise.

While many early buildings didn’t survive the earthquake, the ones that did are well worth visiting: Sponza Palace, a 16th century Renaissance palace that now houses the National Archives, and the Rector’s Palace which is now a museum. Others are the St Saviour Church and the Franciscan Church and Monastery.

9) Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Mostar, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, was named for the mostari, or medieval bridge keepers who guarded the 16th-century Ottoman-era Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva River. The bridge today is one of the iconic sights of Mostar and is considered a shining example of Islamic architecture.

mostar bosnia

The city itself began as a small settlement, growing as trade between the Adriatic and the inner regions of the Balkans grew. It was under the Ottomans that the city grew into more of an urban centre. Mostar fell under Austrian-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century and remained so until after the first world war, when it became part of the former Yugoslavia.

In the mid-1990s and onwards, several other countries donated funds to restore Mostar – the bridge and the surrounding historic core, mostly.

Must-sees in Mostar include the Stari Most, the historic city centre, the Cejvan Cehaj Mosque and bazaar that sprung up around it, and the Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque. 

10) Kotor, Montenegro

Kotor is a coastal town located within the narrow Bay of Kotor, a submerged river canyon surrounded by steep verdant hills. The city’s medieval core is known for its Venetian fortifications and winding old town streets, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic.

kotor montenegro

Kotor has seen a huge influx of tourists over the last few years as more and more cruise ships stop here, despite this it still feels like a small town. Kotor was settled as early as 168 BCE and fortified since the early Middle Ages, although it has been ruled by various empires. After serving as a base for the Austro-Hungarian naval fleet during the first world war, Kotor became part of the former Yugoslavia.

Some of the most important sites here include St Tryphon’s Cathedral (Roman Catholic) and St. Nicholas’ Church, while San Giovanni Fortress pretty much begs you to climb to the top. The views from the top are epic. For a more quirky stop, don’t miss the cat museum, which has a huge collection of various feline-related things donated by Italian Countess Francesca di Montereale Mantica.

Written by Chrysoula — A travel blogger born and raised in Athens, Greece with a professional background in Tourism and Marketing. Through the pages of Greece Travel Ideas, she wants to help visitors make the most of their trip to Greece and introduce them to the Greek culture and traditions.

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9 Best Bucharest Restaurants & Cafes (+Romanian Food Guide) https://booksandbao.com/bucharest-restaurants-cafes-romanian-food-guide/ https://booksandbao.com/bucharest-restaurants-cafes-romanian-food-guide/#comments Sat, 02 Jan 2021 09:38:00 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=8901 Get to know some of Bucharest’s best cafes and restaurants and what Romanian food you should be ordering there with this guide.

Traditional Romanian food is a mountain of indulgence and a broad landscape of local delicacies inspired by centuries of history, empire, and immigration. There is so much to love and explore in both the sweets and savouries of Romanian food that it’s vital to know the best restaurants in Bucharest, and to have a firm grip on the most unmissable Romanian dishes.

best restaurants in bucharest

Here, you’ll find not only the five best restaurants in Bucharest – as well as their history and cultural importance – but also the four best cafes in Bucharest to relax at and take in the atmosphere. Finally, at the bottom, you’ll get a detailed guide to the very best of traditional Romanian food from Wallachia and Transylvania, including the Romanian national dish.

Everything we learned here was taught and shown to us by the amazing people at Romanian Thrills. Check them out to book a private tour of Romania’s history and natural landscape.

5 Best Restaurants in Bucharest

Everyone who visits Bucharest owes it to themselves to indulge in the local cuisine. Traditional Romanian food is delicious – all of it; every single bit. And Bucharest has some historic, beautiful, dedicated restaurants that serve up the best Romanian dishes around. Here are five to check out when you visit Bucharest.

Manuc’s Inn (Restaurant Hanu’lui Manuc)

We mentioned Manuc’s Inn as a place of great historic and architectural significance in our guide to things to see in Bucharest, but it’s also one of the best restaurants in Bucharest. In fact, Manuc’s Inn might be the very best, not only for its architectural beauty, history, and atmosphere, but for its menu – which is the real reason anyone eats anywhere.

manucs inn bucharest romania

You can scroll down to our guide to the best Romanian dishes, but you’ll also find almost all of them on the menu at Manuc’s Inn. Restaurant Hanu’lui Manuc, being the place of cultural history that it is, and once upon a time being a vital staple of Bucharest’s economy and politics, is a Romanian restaurant very much concerned with serving up real traditional Romanian food.

At this Romanian restaurant you’ll find the national dish of Romania: sarmale, as well as every local’s favourite skinless sausages (mici) and a soup originally brought to Romania all the way from medieval Persia: ciorba. For dessert, you can treat yourself to what is Europe’s most indulgently sweet and filling pudding: papanasi.

manucs inn bucharest romania

In short, if you want an affordable meal in a beautiful central location, drenched in Romanian history, and if you’re looking to try real traditional Romanian food – and the very best of it, no less – head to Manuc’s Inn, one of the very best restaurants in Bucharest.

Caru’ cu Bere

With a name that literally translates to ‘The Beer Wagon’, this restaurant in Bucharest Old Town is a symbol and a staple of Bucharest in more ways than one. The first being its neo-gothic architecture, which adds spectacularly to the collage of gorgeous architecture that makes up the style and aesthetics of Bucharest Old Town.

One of the family founders of Caru’ cu Bere took a trip to Germany in the late 19th century to learn about the process of beer brewing, and ever since Caru’ cu Bere has been a beloved pub and brewery for so many locals for over a hundred years. But Caru’ cu Bere offers more than just beer.

As a hub for traditional Romanian food, ‘The Beer Wagon’ is one of the best restaurants in Bucharest. Their menus offers a dizzying selection of homemade meals, from breads and salads to soups and grilled meats. The Romanian dishes we’ve already mentioned, and will continue to mention – like sarmale cabbage rolls and papanasi dessert – all feature on the menu.

With a huge history (which you can read more about on their website), grandiose architecture, a deep beer culture, and an extensive menu of Romanian dishes, Caru’ cu Bere is indisputably one of the best restaurants in Bucharest.

Read More: 10 Amazing Places to Visit in The Balkans

Scovergaria Micai

Perhaps it’s unfair to call this one of the best restaurants in Bucharest, since it’s not technically a restaurant but more of a street food stall/takeout place. Nonetheless, Scovergaria Micai is the best place in Bucharest to pick up some heavenly scovergi.

scovergaria micai

You can find out more about scovergi below but it’s vital that you know just how heavenly they are. In the UK, we have Cornish pasties; in New York, there are hotdog vendors; in Shanghai and Taipei, there are bao; in Osaka, you’ll find takoyaki. In Bucharest, the cheap, delicious, filling street food of choice is scovergi.

Scovergaria Micai can be found in Bucharest Old Town, and the end of Strada Lipscani and around the corner from the National Museum of Romanian History. It’s a simple hole-in-the-wall where you pick your scovergi of choice from a long menu, order from the lovely lady behind the counter, and walk away a very happy person.

scovergi scovergaria micai

Scovergi from this place are so cheap it feels dirty, and our scovergi of choice were filled with cheese, garlic, and dill. Find your own and then find yourself coming back every single day for lunch.

Read More: 9 Unmissable Things to Do in Bucharest

Saint George

While we often consider Saint George the patron saint of England (and that’s true) he actually has enormous significance across Europe and beyond, including Romania. Born in Cappadocia, Turkey, Saint George is the patron saint of a number of nations and regions across the world, and in Romania Saint George’s Day is a pretty big deal.

So, it should come as no surprise that a restaurant that has taken his name has nothing to do with English food. In fact, Saint George restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Bucharest, offering both Transylvanian fare and, for those looking for comfort food, some fantastic Italian dishes.

All the best Transylvanian food can be found here, as well as reliable staples like ciorba soups and sarmale. There are a lot of meat-based dishes here, which is worth keeping in mind. But, if you are a carnivore, then you have your pick of beef, fish, and pork-based meals; and they’re all excellent.

Obor Market

While a market might not be a restaurant, the goal of this guide is to give visitors to Bucharest the chance to really understand Romanian food and to enjoy the best Romanian dishes. You can do both at Obor farmer’s market.

obor farmers market bucharest romania

This market, which is open every day of the year, has an outdoor eating area where you can enjoy the very best mici in Bucharest. Just below, you’ll find out the story of mici and exactly how it came to be. But, put simply, mici are grilled skinless sausages. And the ones you can get at Obor Market are divine; their recipe is perfection, and they give an enormous helping of mustard to enjoy your mici with.

Aside from mici, Obor Market also allows visitors the opportunity to explore all the local ingredients and shopping items that Romanians typically pick up. Romania is still a very traditional place, and shopping at farmer’s markets (as well as at the supermarkets0 is the norm for the majority of people in Bucharest.

Because of this, Obor Market is the truest representation of food shopping and traditional Romanian food in Bucharest. You won’t find the best restaurants in Bucharest here; what you’ll find instead is something more valuable: a window into authentic Romanian living and eating.

4 Best Cafes in Bucharest

Bucharest is a busy place, and knowing where to take refuge and be able to relax when you’ve had enough of exploring and you need to recharge is vital to fully enjoying this bustling capital. It’s also important for coffee addicts like us to know where to get the very best coffee in Bucharest. So, here are four excellent cafes in Bucharest to relax in and enjoy.

Origo Coffee Shop

Origo is the speciality coffee shop of Bucharest. While Brasov is overflowing with great cafes and has a real coffee culture, Bucharest at first seems a little lacking. That might be because all the city’s creative coffee energy went into Origo.

origo coffee shop bucharest romania

If you’re looking to get your hipster coffee fill, with a post-modern artsy décor, friendly English-speaking servers, artisanal coffees, and packets of their own speciality coffee on sale for you to take home with you, Origo has it all.

There are multiple blends of coffee to choose from at Origo, from multiple sources around the world. The coffee experts at Origo experiment with blends to provide truly unique-smelling-and-tasting coffee. One that we tried was brewed in rum barrels and actually had a sweet rum flavour; it was seriously delicious.

For proper quality coffee, and if you’re looking for a coffee shop in Bucharest that’s designed for coffee lovers by coffee lovers, Origo is absolutely it. For the quality of its coffee alone and the dedication they have to coffee, Origo is the best café in Bucharest.

Carturesti Carusel Café

Carturesti Carusel, an enormous bookshop in Bucharest Old Town, is a place we recommend you visit for its selection of books, its atmosphere, and its architecture alone. But the cherry on top (literally, because it’s at the top) is its bistro café.

carturesti carusel book shop bistro cafe bucharest

When you enter Carturesti Carusel, your breath will be snatched away by the white columns and staircases, the three balconies of bookshelves that surround you on all sides, and the huge basement of genre fiction, records, video games, and more.

Head up past the balconies of bookcases, and you’ll arrive at a bistro café that overlooks the entire store and all the shoppers happily flicking through books new and old. The café is often quiet and peaceful; a perfect hideaway to sit for hours and read, work, or chat.

No matter how good the coffee might be in a place like Origo, its atmosphere can’t compete with that of a bookshop café in the heart of Bucharest. Nothing marries as well as a bookshop and a café, and Carutresti Carusel is exactly what bookish coffee lovers like us have been searching for.

Grand Café Van Gogh

This café is exactly what it sounds like: a Van Gogh themed café. Walls are lined with replicas of every one of Van Gogh’s most famous artworks, and ‘grand café’ is right – the place is enormous! I’ll comfortably confess to not being the most educated art-lover in the world, but I absolutely adore Van Gogh (I have a little rug of his Café Terrace at Night and I bloody love it). So finding a Van Gogh café in Bucharest was the most delightful surprise.

grand cafe van gogh bucharest romania

The coffee at Grand Café Van Gogh is a little on the pricey side, at least by Bucharest standards (still cheaper than Starbucks), but it’s the décor and atmosphere that you’re coming for. High ceilings, an elaborate bar and staircase, and the aforementioned walls of Van Gogh paintings.

They also offer a sizeable menu of food options as well, including sandwiches and burgers, all-day breakfasts, various desserts, and more. Of course, if you’re just there for the coffee and the décor, you’ll definitely be satisfied. Grand Café Van Gogh is a treat for the eyes and a truly exciting atmosphere to indulge in as you rest and take a break from exploring Bucharest Old Town.

Fox Book Shop & Coffee Lounge

Found at the side of a busy boulevard between Youth Park and Carol Park, Fox Book Shop & Coffee Lounge is a quiet haven for book lovers and coffee drinkers. It’s also not the only fox-themed bookshop and café in this corner of the world – Sofia in neighbouring Bulgaria has one, too, and each is as delightful as the other. There’s certainly some charming magic that brings foxes, coffee, and books together in perfect harmony.

At first, the location of Fox Book Shop & Coffee Lounge seems a little off, but actually it’s just what you need: a refuge from the busy streets and the brutalist architecture. A soft, quiet home for book lovers who want to browse, buy, read, and enjoy a soothing cup of coffee.

A Guide to Traditional Romanian Food

Now that you know where to eat in Bucharest, let’s look at exactly what you should eat. These are five Romanian dishes – including meals, desserts, and street foods – which represent the culinary range and beauty of Romania, including the national dish of Romania.

Mici

Mici (pronounced like ‘meech’ and often called mititei in Transylvania) are grilled skinless sausages which originated in Bucharest in the 19th century. Though they’re from Bucharest they can be found across Walachia and Transylvania.

mici traditional romanian food

Although they’re not, comparatively, all that old, mici are a true traditional Romanian food, and one of the most beloved Romanian dishes in their hometown of Bucharest. They’re also a really great entry point for trying Romanian food, since they’re so similar to a staple of British and German cuisine: pork sausages.

The story of their origin goes back to a rushed chef, a busy restaurant, and a moment of desperate ingenuity. When a Bucharest chef ran out of skin for his sausages, he though to just put some pork meat on the grill and serve it up with some mustard, hoping that his customers would be happy enough with what they go. And happy they were! Since then, mici have remained a staple traditional Romanian food.

Just make sure, when you try mici, that you eat them with a large dollop of mustard. Otherwise, well, you’re doing the beloved mici a disservice.

Papanasi

One thing to know about Romanian dishes is that they’re made up of three primary food groups: pork, carbs, and fried things. Even their desserts are fried, as evidenced by the queen of Romanian desserts: papanasi (pronounced like if you had a beloved grandfather who loved to chew things, and you endearingly called him Papa Nash).

papanasi traditional romanian dessert

At their heart, literally, papanasi are big lumps of fried doughnut. Sweet, warm, a little crunchy, filled with soft cheese, and coated with a generous helping of sour cream and jam – often blueberry. They’re also topped with another, smaller fried dough ball which makes them look a bit like a bobble hat.

When first shown Papanasi by the guys at Romanian Thrills, I asked what the little ball on top was, assuming it was fruit-based or something else entirely. Vlad shrugged and said, “More dough. We like dough,” which, honestly, is the best answer we could have received. It goes without saying that Papanasi are the most indulgent dessert you’ll ever eat in all of Europe.

It’s a wonderful feeling when you’re desperate to try the local dish of a place but you also have that guilty feeling where you’d rather just have something familiar like a cheeseburger or some cake. Well, papanasi is a true traditional Romanian food that’s also as familiar and indulgent as you can get.

It’s a thrill of a dessert that we recommend you share, because when it comes to papanasi, our eyes are often bigger than our stomachs. That goes double for those of us who have just gorged ourselves on a plateful of that most succulent of Romanian dishes: mici.

Scovergi

We’ve already mentioned which Romanian restaurant serves up the best scovergi, and just how ludicrously cheap they are, but what exactly are scovergi? Well, most nations around the world have their meals, their desserts, and a third thing. This third thing is usually cheaper, smaller, good for breakfast or lunch, often served as street food. Scovergi are exactly that.

scovergi romanian street food

Scovergi are flat slabs of fried dough, rolled into a pastry, and filled to overflowing with things that designate it either sweet or savoury. If you’re eating one as a dessert, it’ll be filled with yogurt or jam. If it’s a snack or a lunch item, it’ll be full of cheese, garlic, dill, and sour cream. Put simply, scovergi are heavenly.

They’re almost illegally cheap and a very simple, common Romanian food. Though ‘simple’ might be the wrong word, given just how delectable they are. While they might not be considered one of the great items of traditional Romanian food, scovergi are nevertheless an absolute favourite of ours, and a must-try when you visit Bucharest.

Scovergi tip: You won’t find scovergi outside of Wallachia. When we visited Transylvania, we were heartbroken to find this out (although we did later find out that the Hungarian equivalent in Tranalvanyia is called langos so keep an eye out for those). They are very much a Bucharest food, so keep that in mind and be prepared to have to go without when you leave Bucharest.

Sarmale

Ever wonder what is Romania’s national dish? It’s sarmale: cabbage rolls usually filled with pork, garlic, and possibly some onions and other spices (and pronounced like sar-mah-lay). It’s actually inspired from the Ottoman empire, supposedly inspired by the Greek stuffed vine-leaves dolma but, either way, it’s totally unique and absolutely delicious.

If you’re from the UK, like we are, you might have grown up assuming that cabbage is a dull and lifeless food. But travel to places like China and Eastern Europe and you’ll soon discover the versatility and mouth-watering deliciousness of cabbage. Prime example: sarmale.

sarmale romania national dish

When we sat down in a restaurant in Brasov, I indulged in my twentieth plate of mici, while Jess followed her curiosity and ordered some sarmale. At first, it looked pretty unappetising. But the flavour, texture, and smell make for one of the most delightfully filling and gratifying of Romanian dishes.

It’s honestly no wonder that sarmale are Romania’s national dish. They are made up of simple things that allow with enough experimentation to make them delightfully fun to try. They’re relatively healthy but also kinda not. And they really hit the spot on a cold winter’s day, especially. Along with mici, sarmale are the best example of a traditional Romanian food, and they really are excellent.

Ciorba

If you know your Persian, Arab, or Turkish foods then you might recognise this word. More commonly spelled ‘shorba’ in the Middle East, ciorba is a soup that originated in Persia and made its way to Romania centuries ago.

ciorba romanian soup

Ciorba, very simply, is a sour soup comprised of various meats and vegetables – often pork in Romania because, well, it’s Romania. Since the winters here get bitingly cold, ciorba is a lifesaver of a dish. When you order it at a Romanian restaurant, you’ll find that it’s often served with a generous helping of the local bread, as are most soups in Europe.

There’s no great secret to ciorba, except that its existence speaks to the fascinating history of Romania, a European country with a fascinatingly diverse range of culinary influences from the East. And, of course, if you’ve had soup in other countries, you know that every nation’s soup is its own, and ciorba is very much one of the beloved Romanian dishes.

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Brasov Old Town Complete Guide: Sights, Food, & Cafes https://booksandbao.com/brasov-old-town-complete-guide/ https://booksandbao.com/brasov-old-town-complete-guide/#comments Thu, 02 Jan 2020 15:36:18 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=8927 Brasov’s Old Town is the historic, architectural, and culinary heart of Brasov. It is where all the best food, coffee, and sights can be enjoyed. That includes the world-famous Black Church, the old defensive fortifications, and more – all of which we will cover here in a complete guide to all the most essential things to do in Brasov.

From literary themed cafes to restaurants which offer traditional Romanian food, as well as a full sightseeing guide and tips on how to easily get from Bucharest to Brasov, here is your complete guide to Brasov Old Town.

Everything we got to experience here was thanks to the awesome people at Romanian Thrills. Book a tour with them to discover both Romanian history and the country’s natural beauty.

Things to Do in Brasov Old Town

brasov council square romania

All the best and most essential Brasov sightseeing is done in Brasov Old Town. While the rest of the city has a lot of great restaurants, hotels, and cafes to explore, the real historic and architectural beauty of Brasov is in Old Town. And here are is a guide to the unmissable things to do in Brasov Old Town when you visit Brasov.

Hotel Tip: Brasov hotels and hostels are all fairly affordable, so make sure to prioritise location and go for something in, or within walking distance of, Old Town.

Read More: Brasov Day Trips that You Have to Do

The Black Church

The 17th Century was a rough one for Europe; the Great Fire of London in 1666 being a blistering example of that. Only a few years later, Brasov had its own great fire – one which snuffed out the lives of 3,000 Brasov residents. The fire also damaged Saint Maria Church, scarring it so famously black that its name was unavoidably (and officially) changed to The Black Church.

the black church brasov romania

The Black Church is one of the most alluring buildings in Brasov, in part because of its dark history but also simply because it still stands today as a powerful and dominant figure in Brasov’s Old Town.

One of the only things not burned up in the fire of April 1689 was a painting of the Virgin Mary. Before the fire, she wore a dress of deep blue; the fire turned her dress a pitch-black colour, said to represent her mourning for the victims of the fire of Brasov.

the black church brasov transylvania

Because of this blackening, she is now known as the Black Madonna (we weren’t able to take any photos of the Black Madonna since photography in most Romanian churches is prohibited).

Outside the church is a statue of Johannes Honter, a Romanian Saxon and a follower of the teachings of Martin Luther. Honter brought the first printing press to Romania, opened a library, and established a German school in Brasov (which still remains behind the Black Church, and which his statue is gesturing towards).

johannes honster statue black church

Honter also instigated the switching of mass readings in Romania from Latin to German so that the Saxon people of Transylvania at the time could actually understand it. In other words, he was a great humanist who is still very much honoured and beloved in Brasov.

Strada Sforii (Rope Street)

Proudly wearinf the title of ‘narrowest street in Southeast Europe’, Rope Street was a later addition to the already established medieval town of Brasov. It was carved out to provide ease of access to firefighters who, during the medieval era, had to make do with carrying buckets of water back and forth to quench the flames.

rope street brasov transylvania

The stipulation for the width of Strada Sforii was that it had to be just wide enough to fit a fireman carrying two buckets of water. That’s it. And, yeah, it just about manages that.

At the end of Rope Street, you’ll meet a brand new and abstract statue (pictured below) that celebrates the history and imagery of Rope Street. Hilariously, it has already been damaged by a random drunk who tried to do a pull-up on her arm.

rope street statue brasov romania

Beyond simply being a narrow alley that barely fulfils its purpose, Rope Street also provides for a very impressive photo opportunity.

One of the coolest things to do in Brasov is to get an epic photo of the Brasov sign (more on that below) which stands proud on the mountain beside Old Town. Strada Sforii provides the most epic photo op for the Brasov sign. Walk halfway down, away from Old Town, and look up to get the best shot.

There is also a local legend surrounding Rope Street and involving that most legendary of Transylvanians: Vlad Tepes. It is said that Vlad the Impaler stole a kiss from his future wife while walking with her down Rope Street. For the sake of transparency, this might just be a legend, since records of the street begin in the 17th Century and Vlad Tepes ruled Wallachia (not Transylvania) during the 15th Century. Still a cool story, though!

Brasov Sign on Tampa Mountain

While we did stipulate that all the best things to do in Brasov can be found in Old Town, the Brasov sign is a bit of a cheat because it’s a modern addition and it merely overlooks Old Town from Tampa Mountain,  a small mountain which sits within the city limits.

brasov sign romania

The Brasov sign should feel familiar to you if you’ve ever seen a film or breathed oxygen: it’s an unashamed copy of LA’s iconic Hollywood sign. Except it’s actually better than the Hollywood sign because it lights up at night.

The story behind the Brasov sign is far more interesting, and darker, than you might first assume. It originally put in place because, for a decade during the mid-20th century, Brasov went by another name: Stalin. Just Stalin. In fact, several cities across eastern Europe had their names changed to Stalin under Soviet and Communist rule.

On Tampa Mountain, the name Stalin was formed from strategically planted trees. To eventually get rid of the name, more trees were planted to obscure the letters and, eventually, the Hollywood-inspired Brasov sign was put in place, and there it stands proud to this day.

brasov sign at night

You can also take the Tampa Mountain Cable Car up to the Brasov sign. It runs from 9.30am to 5pm and costs just 10 lei ($2.50) one way or 17 lei for a return trip. If you’d prefer to hike all the way up, you can do that, too! The view of Old Town from the Brasov sign is excellent and taking the time to head up via hike or cable car definitely makes for one of the best things to do in Brasov.

Read More: 9 Unmissable Things to Do in Bucharest

Catherine’s Gate

Surrounding the western parts of Old Town are Brasov’s old Defensive Fortifications. If you’re a history buff, visiting these old city walls is one of the coolest things to do in Brasov. And the most impressive part of the old fortifications is Catherine’s Gate.

catherine's gate brasov romania

While a few towers and bastions remain intact, it’s Catherine’s Gate that stands tall and proud to this day. Though what we have now isn’t the entire structure. Much of this medieval gate was demolished in 1827, but the gate that remains is still a sight and a half. In fact, its five small medieval towers are so delightfully reminiscent of a Disney castle as to give you happy fairy tale chills.

The five high-pointed towers of Catherine’s Gate are representative of Brasov’s proudest symbol: the crown. If you have a sharp enough eye, you’ll spy the symbol of the crown everywhere in Brasov Old Town, either literally — in a coat of arms — or symbolically in the shape of things, with Catherine’s Gate being the best example.

catherines gate brasov transylvania

The reason for the crown is in part because Brasov’s Latin name was Corona (crown). And so, the coat of arms to this day features a crown.

It also features the roots of a tree, the origin of which can be traced back to the Hungarian King Solomon who fled into the woods of Brasov and placed his crown on a tree to trick his pursuers while he hid in the nearby caves.

Council Square (Piata Sfatului)

The place in which you will likely end up spending much of you time when you visit Brasov is Piata Sfatului – the council square of Old Town.

It’s the central glue of the district – a picturesque and historic square surrounded by medieval buildings. From the Council Square you can see and walk to the Black Church, spy and photograph the Brasov sign, and walk down Strada Republicii (more on that below).

brasov council square transylvania

Council Square is also where you can find plenty of food and drinks, both local and foreign, traditional and modern. If you’re craving Starbucks or KFC, they’re here. If you’d rather try the best traditional Romanian food, here you’ll find La Ceaun (more about Brasov restaurants below as well). And, if you’re eager to explore the Brasov café scene, Kafe Pub is steps away.

As for the history of Piata Sfatului, the first thing you’ll notice is the enormous central watchtower. What was once the Council House is now the Brasov County Museum of History. On one side you’ll spy the Brasov Coat of Arms displayed proudly. The watchtower is known as Trumpeters Tower, where lookouts would use trumpets to signal approaching invaders.

council house brasov

The former Brasov Council House is also where criminals due to be imminently hanged would spend their final night, in the tower overlooking the gallows – perhaps the worst torture they could have been put through. Where the gallows once stood is now the fountain; a far more pleasant sight.

Brasov Council Square is very much the hub of Old Town, and you’ll find plenty of Brasov hotels nearby, which is exactly where you’ll want to be. From Piata Sfatului, all the best things to do in Brasov are within reach, including Strada Republicii.

Strada Republicii

Commonly known as Brasov’s pedestrian street, this is the main shopping street of Old Town. No cars can come down here, and it’s on this street that you’ll find the best Brasov restaurants, cafes, and boutique shops.

Beginning in Council Square and making up the spine of old town, with smaller streets reaching out and away like limbs, Strada Republicii is home to almost every single one of the Brasov restaurants we’ll be exploring below: L’etage, Bibliotheque Pub, Pickles, and more besides for you to discover for yourself.

If you’re in the mood to shop, Strada Republicii has some great stores. Our favourite which we discovered when strolling up and down Strada Republicii was Cato: a stunning local store that sells gorgeous high-end jackets, boots, sweaters, scarves, and more for a really good price.

It’s not usual for us to promote a particular clothing store on Books and Bao, but the stuff here was just so beautiful. Strada Republicii always delivers. If you’ve finished your Brasov sightseeing and you’re wondering what to do in Brasov Old Town, simply take a stroll down Strada Republicii and explore the shops, cafes, and restaurants on offer. Speaking of Brasov restaurants…

Brasov Restaurants & Cafes

We’ve already covered at length the wonders and delights of traditional Romanian food, and a lot of it hails from Transylvania. So, while you’re in Brasov, make sure to fully explore the local cuisine in as many of the following Brasov restaurants as possible.

The coffee culture in Brasov is also intense – far more so than in the capital of Bucharest. Take advantage of that while you’re here and check out these fantastic speciality and themed local Brasov cafes and pubs.

La Ceaun

Let’s begin with one of the very best Brasov restaurants. In fact, if you’re specifically looking for traditional Romanian food, La Ceaun is the best. There are two branches in Old Town: one on Council Square and another on a side street just off from Strada Republicii.

mici traditional romanian food

La Ceaun is a rustic and traditional restaurant with modern trappings which serves all the best Romanian dishes. Here, you’ll find the very best mici (known here in Transylvania as mititei) and sarmale. The Council Square branch of La Ceaun also offers a colossally sized papanasi for dessert.

Just be aware: only the Council Square branch offers mici and papanasi, thus making it the superior branch of La Ceaun. For this reason, we can’t really recommend the second branch; it’s better to just stick with the restaurant on Council Square, so vitally important to your diet are mici and papanasi.

While the restaurant does look quite fancy, and the food is plentiful, the prices are still insanely reasonable for foreign visitors. For locals, they’re arguably a little pricey, but you won’t have any problem affording a few meals at La Ceaun.

If you want to know more about the dishes mentioned here, like sarmale, mici, and papanasi, check out our detailed guide to local Romanian dishes.

L’etage

As bookish travellers, we’re obligated and excited to discuss a place with this much literary charm. L’etage is a Brasov restaurant, café, and bar. When we visited, we just had a few coffees, but they also have an extensive drinks range and fantastic dinner options.

l'etage brasov transylvania

L’etage, located halfway down Strada Republicii, is a great place to come during the evening. Live music, from a lone pianist to a larger band, is playing almost constantly, and the décor is made up of literal walls of books. The theme here is books and music, and it is executed so masterfully.

What L’etage really has going for it as one of the best Brasov restaurants is its underground musical charm, its dedication to using books and literature as a decorative theme, and its pub-like charming atmosphere. A great place to eat, drink, and be merry.

Read More: A Complete Guide to Traditional Romanian Food

Pharmacy Café

Perhaps our favourite place in Brasov to sit and relax. Found on Strada Michael Weiss, and offshoot of Strada Republicii, Pharmacy Café is a little wonderland for fans of Jules Verne, Mary Shelley, or Robert Louis Stevenson – in fact, the official name above the door is Dr. Jekelius, named after one of Stevenson’s most beloved characters.

pharmacy cafe brasov transylvania

The décor of Pharmacy Café is subtle – understated – but clear enough to be just a little bit, and delightfully, campy. But the place always has a perfectly calm and relaxed atmosphere that soothes as well as its drinks do. It’s the perfect antidote to a long and exhausting day of exploring and sightseeing in Brasov. If you’re looking for a place to relax, have a coffee, and take a load off, Pharmacy Café is exactly that.

One of the most encouraging things about Brasov in general is that so many shops and cafes are open far later than in many European cities, so don’t worry about missing your chance to relax at Pharmacy Café – it’s open from 8am to 12am every single day of the week.

Bistro de l’Arte

When we visit another country, it doesn’t take long to get used to their average cost of living. Spend a week in London and you get used to paying £8 for a pint. Spend a month in China and you’ll be appalled when you leave and find that other countries’ taxis cost more than $5.

My point here is that Bistro de l’Arte is a little pricey – perhaps the priciest of the Brasov restaurants we’ve mentioned here. But it’s still cheap, or at most average, by Western European standards. Comparatively to other Brasov restaurants, though, it feels a little high-end.

All that said, you pay for what you get. And Bistro de l’Arte provides the finest local cuisine and a very refined and authentic décor that’s perfect for a date night. It has a medieval style décor that breathes traditional both inside and out, and the wine list is appropriately generous.

Bibliotheque Pub

As the name suggests, this is another literary themed place that suits the scene of Brasov perfectly. You enter Bibliotheque Pub down a short alleyway off Strada Republicii, and this alleyway is lined with rustic bookshelves, themselves lined with old, warn tomes of Romanian literature.

bibliotheque pub brasov transylvania

The menu for Bibliotheque Pub is a perfect and welcoming mix of authentic Transylvanian cuisine and a broader selection of foreign staples like burgers and fries. It’s affordable and strikes an ideal balance between local and foreign, while having one of the best aesthetics of any of the Brasov restaurants we’ve covered.

Kafe Pub

Moving away from the Brasov restaurants and into the more selective locales. Kafe Pub is a coffee shop, pure and simple.

It’s another bookish, literary themed café that offers an enormous selection of coffees of every kind, with all of the assumed Italian words plastered across the menu. If you like your coffees sweet, there’s a host of flavour choices available.

kafe pub brasov romania

Kafe Pub is very much a lazy Sunday afternoon kind of place. If you love tucking a book under your arm and heading out to a coffee shop for some quiet reading time in a soothing environment, Kafe Pub is exactly what you’re looking for.

Kafe Pub is for the people coming to Brasov to relax, take in the local vibe, and forget their troubles. The décor, which features hipster vintage staples like an old gramophone and rows of books, reinforces that delightfully, and the soundtrack which accompanies your drinking session is as jazzy and smooth as the coffee they serve.

kafe pub brasov transylvania

Luado Chocolate

While Luado Chocolate is neither a Brasov restaurant nor a café, it is still a unique and dazzling local place that absolutely deserves both mentioning and visiting. This place is a local chocolatier found on a corner of Council Square.

While you can pick up handmade boxes of chocolates here for yourself or as souvenirs for loved ones back home, you owe it to yourself to try their hot chocolate – the authentic type that’s made with a lump of chocolate on a stick (the best kind). If you visit Brasov in winter the hot chocolate is especially soothing and welcoming.

Getting from Bucharest to Brasov

Let’s close off this guide by mentioning exactly how to get from Bucharest to Brasov. Most people who come to Brasov fly into Bucharest first, then make plans to travel north from Bucharest to Brasov. And what’s the best way to do that?

You have a few options, but the best of them is to travel by rail. The trains across Romania aren’t all quick and reliable, but the one from Bucharest to Brasov and back certainly is. It takes two hours and the scenery is extraordinary, especially if you catch the mountains when they’re caked in pure white snow.

Just head to Gara de Nord station in Bucharest and hop on the train to Brasov. You can buy tickets at the station or online. We suggest online to guarantee yourself a seat. And they’re cheap, too!

If you’d prefer the more adventurous option, you can rent a car. Driving in Romania has built up a kind of scary mythology which I want to put to rest right now: driving in Bucharest is terrifying and not recommended. Driving anywhere else in Romania is absolutely fine.

If you want to rent a car, hop on the train at Gara de Nord and get off at Sinaia – a gorgeous mountain resort town. From there, you’re far enough from Bucharest to rent a car and safely drive the rest of the way to Brasov and beyond.

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