Travel – Books and Bao https://booksandbao.com Translated Literature | Bookish Travel | Culture Mon, 24 Mar 2025 05:14:37 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 https://booksandbao.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Logo-without-BG-150x150.jpg Travel – Books and Bao https://booksandbao.com 32 32 Exploring Culross: Scotland’s Untouched Medieval Town https://booksandbao.com/visiting-culross-town-scotland-history/ Wed, 04 Sep 2024 11:19:41 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=25202 Located a half-hour drive northwest of Edinburgh, across the Firth of Forth, is the perfectly preserved village of Culross (pronounced coo-ross). While now a quiet village with a population in the hundreds, Culross was once a wealthy and bustling pre-industrial town. And thanks to its unwillingness to move with the tides of time, Culross remains frozen as a perfect relic of Scotland’s 16th and 17th centuries.

Given how easy it is to access Culross from Glasgow, Edinburgh, and other nearby towns and cities such as Perth, Falkirk, and Stirling, this historic little town makes for a very popular day trip for those interested in Scottish and British history, as well as those who simply like to imagine what life was like several centuries ago. And imagining is easy when Culross remains entirely populated by old stone cottages and cobbled streets.

culross town

The History of Culross

For centuries, Culross existed as a small port town on the Firth of Forth. But everything changed with the discovery of coal in the 16th century. That discovery led the merchant George Bruce (who would later be knighted for his successes in Culross) to establish a coal mine in the town.

The mine opened in 1575, but in 1590 Culross’ workers dug out what became known as the Coal Pit, the first coal mine to tunnel below the sea. The Coal Pit extended under the Firth of Forth, and the coal mined there made the town a prosperous and popular place. Merchants and tradesmen filled the streets; the town was shrouded in the smells and the fog of industry. And in its centre, George Bruce built himself a grand home: Culross Palace.

culross palace

Not a palace in any true sense, Bruce’s grand home was still an impressive space—one which visitors are free to explore (more on that below). Culross Palace is separated into two buildings, one built more than a decade after the other; as well as gardens and a courtyard. It is also notable for its vivid yellow exterior, and for the fact that Bruce’s “palace” was even visited by King James VI in 1617.

After George Bruce’s death in 1625, his mining legacy didn’t last too much longer. The town soon quieted and shrank as industry in Scotland moved on. But the town didn’t. Its stone cottages, as well as Culross Palace, remained exactly as they were—almost out of time.

culross tollbooth

Culross Town House (otherwise known as the Culross Tollbooth), another iconic part of the village, was built a year after Bruce’s death, in 1626, and since then the town has seen minimal modernisation. Today, Culross Palace is owned by the National Trust of Scotland; many of the town’s cottages have been converted into shops, cafes, and BnBs. Other houses are simply lived in by private residents, as they always have been.

Visiting Culross: What to Do

The best way to get to Culross is to drive. Depending on traffic, getting to Culross will take between 30 and 60 minutes from Edinburgh or Glasgow. Upon entering the town, you’ll find a free car park. And once you’ve parked, it’s a five minute walk along the edge of the Firth of Forth, past a playground and a green area, before you reach the heart of the village: Culross Palace.

That aforementioned green area is often populated by independent stalls where people sell homemade cakes and handcrafted blankets, wood carvings, scarves, and other decorations for your home. The people making and selling their crocheted hats, stained glass decorations, and moreish brownies are friendly and always happy to chat with visitors as you browse their homemade wares.

culross cottage

Its hard to get lost in Culross, given how the village is made up of just a few cobbled streets. Two building’s you’ll notice immediately are George Bruce’s Palace and the Culross Tollbooth. Today, the Tollbooth is a gift shop and exhibition space. And the gift shop is where you’ll find tickets to Culross Palace.

Culross is a popular tourist destination for fans of the Outlander TV drama (based on a series of historical novels by Diana Gabaldon). Outlander is a hugely popular show, especially in the US, and fans flock to Culross to see some of the show’s filming locations in person. Outlander has been filmed both on the streets of Culross and inside Culross Palace.

Culross Palace

The Palace itself, constructed as a residence for George Bruce in the late 16th century, is free to enter for anyone with a National Trust membership; everyone else must buy a ticket from the Tollbooth gift shop. Entry to Culross Palace is every fifteen minutes, and upon entry you’ll be guided to a room where you’ll watch a short video on the history of the town. Then, you are free to explore the Palace rooms and gardens.

george bruce house

Culross Palace is a beautiful place to explore, with so much of its interiors perfectly preserved or restored. Four-poster beds, dining tables, portraits, fireplaces, latticed windows, chandeliers, and every other element of interior decoration you’d expect to find in a grand 16th century house. You’re free to take your time as you wander from room to room—including the drawing room, kitchen, bedrooms, attic spaces, and gardens.

Shops and Cafes

It’s best to arrive in Culross in the late morning, just in time for lunch. The town has two excellent cafes that provide tea, coffee, cakes, and homemade soups and sandwiches. The first is Bessie’s Cafe and the other is the Biscuit Cafe. Both are popular places for tourists and visitors to enjoy lunch or a snack, before or after exploring Culross Palace and the town’s cobbled streets.

biscuit cafe culross

On the ground floor of the Town House/Tollbooth, you’ll find a gift shop which sells tickets to the Palace, as well as various knickknacks connected to Scottish history and culture. There are books on Scottish folklore, highland cow plushies, wool blankets, jewellery, and many other things to buy so that you might remember your visit to the beautiful town of Culross.

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Culzean Castle, Scotland: A Travel Guide https://booksandbao.com/culzean-castle-scotland-travel-guide-uk/ Thu, 04 Jul 2024 10:17:58 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=25015 Standing proud on Scotland’s west coast—just an hour’s drive south from Glasgow—is the majestic Culzean Castle. A jewel of Ayrshire, this perfectly-preserved 18th century castle is an awe-inspiring place to explore when you visit Scotland. With a rich history, wide open grounds to explore, and regal interiors to wander, this is one of the most staggeringly beautiful historic places on Scotland’s coast.

This is your complete guide to Culzean Castle, from the story of its history to all the practical details you need in order to make a rich and wonderful day of exploring this grand Scottish castle.

culzean castle

The History of Culzean Castle

Construction of Culzean Castle began in 1777 and was completed in 1792, designed by renowned neoclassical Scottish architect Robert Adam (Adam was also responsible for the impressive Syon House in West London and the truly iconic Pulteney Bridge in Bath).

Adam oversaw the construction of Culzean Castle for David Kennedy, 10th Earl of Cassilis, who desired a grand seat for his earldom. The castle’s official website describes the castle, under the earl’s vision, as opulent and flamboyant, and these words couldn’t be more appropriate. There is a grandiosity to the castle and its grounds that borders on the absurd. Culzean Castle is pure pageantry, and it is all the more stunning for it.

culzean castle grounds

In 1945, Kennedy’s descendants handed the castle over to the National Trust for Scotland, and today it is a popular destination for day-trips. Its location—perched atop the cliffs of Ayrshire—and its staggering grounds, decorated with exotic plants and flowers, make for a perfect place to spend a day breathing the fresh sea air and enjoying the beauty of both mother nature and human design.

When You Visit Culzean Castle

The unique thing about Culzean Castle is the way it has been presented for guests. The first thing you see upon arriving is not the great castle itself, but rather a courtyard bordered with several buildings for you to explore at your leisure. This is the Culzean Country Park Visitor Centre, and the buildings include:

  • A restaurant/cafe in the old castle stables (Home Farm Kitchen)
  • A gift shop that sells local arts and crafts (Home Farm Shop)
  • Public toilets
  • A beautiful second-hand bookshop
culzean castle ocean view

Many visitors chose to grab lunch or a coffee at the Home Farm Kitchen in order to fuel up for the short coastal walk over the the castle. Once you’re ready to head out, you wander past the Home Farm Shop and step out onto a path that takes you past the Home Farm Second-Hand Bookshop.

This bookshop is impressive in its size, occupying a beautiful old stone building. Bookcases line the walls and tables are decorated with books in the centre of the room. These bookcases are organised into your standard fiction and nonfiction, but interestingly the fiction sections are also divided into hardcovers and paperbacks by women and men. We’ve never seen gender segregation in bookshops before, and it’s certainly an odd choice, but you do you, shop.

culzean castle garden path

The coastal walk to Culzean Castle takes around ten minutes, but you’ll be tempted to stop and take in the sights and sounds of the sea and woodland. Breathe the sea air, listen to the birds, say hi to passing visitors, and wander at your own pace.

The moment you reach the castle itself is a jaw-dropping one. The path will take you to a stone archway supported by short stone towers, and this archway perfectly frames the castle in all its opulence. Beyond the arch is a stone bridge that overlooks the castle’s impressive and colourful garden.

culzean castle dining room

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, you’ll find the Coach House Gallery to your right and the grand castle to your left, with the wide open ocean spread out ahead of you. The gallery is open 11am—4pm and offers original artwork for sale at a range of affordable prices.

The castle itself offers visitors two options: a guided tour (these are at specific times every few hours—ask at reception for details as soon as you enter) or a self-tour. Choosing the self-tour simply means you are free to wander the house at your own pace, taking your time to admire the artwork, furniture, and decor. A guided tour will provide you with plenty of historical facts and details about everything you see as you explore.

culzean castle kitchen

Culzean Castle is divided into several floors with all the lavishly-decorated rooms you would expect to find in a flamboyant old castle: a library, drawing room, dining room, bedrooms with four-posted beds, a servants’ kitchen, and a grand staircase at its heart.

Beyond the castle’s reception area, the first room you’ll enter is the drawing room, and while it’s not unusual for rooms like this one—especially in European castles—to be decorated with medieval weaponry and suits of armour, Culzean Castle is unique in how its drawing room walls are lined with what must surely be hundreds of flintlock pistols. It’s unique and a little alarming, depending on your persuasion.

culzean castle drawing room

While on one side of the castle, you have the blue of the ocean, on the other you have the green of the gardens. You can stick close to the castle and admire the decorative canons that stand beside it, then trace the length of the castle and smell the myriad flowers which line the paths. At the end of one path, you’ll find an orangery which you’re free to pop into and explore.

Getting to Culzean Castle

The nearest large city to Culzean Castle is Glasgow, and getting to the castle grounds from there takes an hour by car. It’s a very easy and stress-free drive along a mix of motorways and main roads.

If you’re taking public transport, things are unfortunately a little more complicated. You can take a ScotRail train from Glasgow Central to Ayr (the closes town to Culzean Castle), and from there you can hop on the 60 bus, which will take thirty minutes to arrive at Glenside. Finally, you’ll need to walk half a mile (15 minutes) to arrive at the Culzean Country Park Visitor Centre.

culzean castle garden

Culzean Castle is open every day between 10:30am and 4:30pm (last entry is at 4:00pm).

Entry prices are £20 for adults, £12 for children, and £48.50 for a family ticket.

Note: Culzean Castle is a National Trust for Scotland property. Visitors with National Trust membership cards can enter for free.

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A Guide to Saint Michael’s Mount, Cornwall https://booksandbao.com/saint-michaels-mount-cornwall-complete-guide/ Thu, 16 May 2024 11:59:45 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=24932 Saint Michael’s Mount is one of the most iconic historical sites in England. A small island, connected to the mainland by a causeway; it is crowned with a mediaeval priory-turned-castle and at its base is a small village (now a collection of shops and cafes).

Arguably less grand and famous than its French sister site—Mont Saint-Michel—this Cornish island remains a gorgeous destination to visit and explore. The short hike up to the monastery provides constantly shifting views, and the monastery itself is a beautiful thing to explore.

saint michaels mount

Saint Michael’s Mount VS Mont Saint-Michel

First of all, what is the connection between these two islands? They are both former monasteries, both sit on isolated islands linked to their homelands by a causeway, and both have the exact same name. It can’t be a coincidence.

And it isn’t. Mont Saint-Michel is the older sister to England’s Saint Michael’s Mount. A Benedictine order of monks occupied Mont Saint-Michel, and were given Saint Michael’s Mount by William the Conqueror after they promised him their support in his conquest of England.

saint michaels mount castle

Since then, each has walked its own historic path—with Saint Michael’s Mount being converted from a priory to a castle and then a private residence—and today both are popular tourist destinations.

Getting to Saint Michael’s Mount

Saint Michael’s Mount sits across a causeway from the small town of Marazion, Cornwall. Marazion itself is a charming place with a few lovely cafes and restaurants. In fact, Chapel Rock Cafe offers diners a view of Saint Michael’s Mount as they eat or enjoy a coffee.

saint michaels mount cornwall

The closest city to Marazion is Penzance, and from there the U4 bus takes just twenty minutes to arrive in the heart of the town. From there, it’s a short walk to Saint Michael’s Mount.

Alternatively, if you have access to a car, you can drive. Setting out from Penzance, along the A394, it takes only fifteen minutes to arrive in Marazion. There, both long-stay and short-stay car parks sit on the beachside, and the walk to Saint Michael’s Mount from there is a short and pleasant one.

saint michaels mount shops

Tip: Check the weather and the Saint Michael’s Mount website before setting off. The causeway cannot be crossed at high tide, and there are set times of day when the island is open and accessible to tourists. This time changes depending on the season, so be vigilant.

What’s on the Island?

As soon as you complete your ten-minute walk across the causeway to reach the island, you’ll first find a collection of beautiful stone cottages. While this was once a village, it is now a selection of converted and accessible buildings for tourists to explore.

a castle in cornwall

One, for example, is the Island Cafe, which offers both indoor and outdoor seating, lovely coffee, scones, and enormous Cornish pasties and sausage rolls (you’d expect nothing less). Next door is the island’s gift shop, which sells a broad range of items—including local gin, chinaware, and blankets.

Across the main path and still within the village is the Barge House, a museum dedicated to the history of Saint Michael’s Mount: both the island itself and the monastery which sits atop it.

Climbing the Hill

While Saint Michael’s Mount was once a priory of the Mont Saint-Michel monks, it later became a fully fortified castle, and then eventually the private home of a wealthy family who continue to live there to this day.

the giants well

The castle itself is still accessible and explorable to the public, despite being a private residence. Staff members work on the island and offer facts and information to visitors who decide to explore the castle’s interior.

The island is free to access, but the castle requires tickets for entry. An adult ticket is £15, and members of the National Trust are granted free access. You’ll buy your tickets (or show your National Trust membership card) at the base of the hill, and then begin your climb.

the giants heart

The climb itself is deceptively short. Old stone steps guide you the entire way, and it takes a maximum of fifteen minutes to reach the castle, stopping along the way to take plenty of photos of the view as it shifts with your climb.

There is also plenty of plant life to photograph, along with elements of old legend like the Giant’s Heart and the Giant’s Well. Before you even begin the climb, you may spy the beautiful Old Dairy building.

The Castle

Once you arrive at the castle proper, you’ll be able to wander its perimeter at your leisure. Views of the ocean, the coastline, the causeway, and the town of Marazion are all easy to enjoy and photograph. It’s also worth turning to glance up at the exterior walls and towers of the castle as you explore. It’s a grand old building, after all.

castle at saint michaels mount

Upon entering the castle through its main doors, you’ll be greeted and given a brief history lesson before being granted free access to explore the space. That said, it’s a curated experience and you are very much on-rails as you move from room to room. And each of these rooms has a member of staff who will be happy to answer your questions.

The rooms of the castle are stunning. Their stone walls are decorated with paintings, tapestries, and various decorative weapons. One fireplace is tiled with illustrated Delft ceramics, and chandeliers hang from the ceilings.

saint michaels mount library

Your walk through the castle will eventually take you to the oldest part: the Church of St Michael & All Angels, originally built in 1135. And it’s clear from the moment you set foot inside that this is the oldest part of the island. Its stained glass windows are breathtaking, and the atmosphere inside is both warming and thrilling.

Touring the castle and the church gives visitors a clear idea of the island’s history. In fact, walking through it feels like walking back in time. You begin at the foot of the hill, drinking coffee and buying gifts. Then you move back in time to a mediaeval castle, and finally arrive at a twelfth-century church at the top of everything. It’s a magnificent experience.

church of saint michael
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The Best Things to See & Do in St Ives, Cornwall https://booksandbao.com/the-best-things-to-see-do-in-st-ives-cornwall/ Wed, 08 May 2024 11:21:19 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=24888 The town of St. Ives, Cornwall is a delightfully warm place, not just because of its pleasant Cornish climate, but because of the simple fact that everything you can see and do in St. Ives is sweet and charming. From the Tate Art Museum to its wide and wonderful selection of independent shops and restaurants, this little Cornish town offers visitors a wholesome and relaxing day out, especially for couples and families.

st ives

A Guide to St Ives, Cornwall

St. Ives is a small Cornish town, situated on the northern coast of the county, and is primarily known for its beaches—where surfing is a popular pastime—but the town is also bursting at the seams with creativity. The town’s Tate Art Museum is only bolstered by its lively local art scene and the sheer selection of thriving independent businesses and small galleries.

Tate St Ives

Much like its sister galleries in London—Tate Britain and Tate Modern—Tate St Ives is a dynamic modern art gallery that offers visitors a wide selection of art from various disciplines. Locals and frequent visitors are fortunate enough to enjoy a rotating selection of exhibitions that changes frequently.

tate st ives

For this reason, visitors to St Ives need to pay close attention to what’s on at Tate St Ives before visiting. Each visit can provide a unique and exciting surprise, and the sheer breadth and scope of art on offer means that there’s something here for everyone. You can check what’s on at the Tate St Ives website.

Porthmeor Beach

Located right across the street from the Tate St Ives building is the town’s gorgeous Porthmeor Beach. This sandy beach stretches across the town’s seafront and is a popular destination for surfers, swimmers, and anyone who enjoys relaxing with a book on a sandy yellow beach.

Porthmeor Beach

From the beach, sunbathers can spy the iconic St Nicholas Chapel nesting atop the grassy clifftop area known as The Island. And because of the snug vibes of St Ives, good food and drinks are never far away. This isn’t a beach that takes pains to arrive at; it is right on the edge of everything. And speaking of great food and drinks…

All That Great Food

If there’s one thing the county of Cornwall is known for, it’s pastries, both sweet and savoury. Cornish pasties are famous across the country, and it’s no surprise that the most delicious and indulgent ones can be found in Cornish towns like St Ives. But it’s not just the pasties that will blow you away. St Ives also has a thriving bakery scene. So many independent businesses offer unique and delectable treats that have become their own local delicacies.

cornish pasties

For example, there’s the St Ives Bakery, located in the heart of the town on Fore Street. This amazing little place sells a unique brand of bun which they call a cruffin: a hybrid croissant and muffin. These incredible little monsters are filled with varies jams and custards.

st ives bakery

Then there’s Fudge Kyst (also on Fore Street): a charming little independent fudge shop. This place has sat on this spot for more than thirty years, making and selling some of the best handmade fudge you’ll ever eat. And, for all your Cornish pasty needs, there’s Warrens, which proudly presents itself as “the oldest Cornish pasty maker in the world”, established back in 1860.

fudge kyst

Beyond its food, St Ives is also known for its outstanding coffee! On Market Place, you’ll find a small coffee shop called Crafted, which offers sit-in and takeaway options. The coffee here is rich, smooth, and divine. And on the High Street, you’ll also find Sea of Coffee, which ties itself beautifully to the nautical aesthetics and history of the town of St Ives.

crafted coffee

Charming Independent Shops

For visitors who love to explore the unique local businesses of a town and avoid the big chains, St Ives is a dream town. So many creative people have built their own beautiful businesses here and seen them flourish.

Several such places exist in a small, secluded courtyard on Fore Street. This courtyard, with its streamers and cobblestones, is a gorgeous little space lined with independent shops, including The Courtyard Tea Room, St Ives Glass Studio, and the James King Gallery.

st ives bookseller

A highlight for bookworms is St Ives’ independent bookshop, appropriately called St Ives Bookseller. This sweet and wholesome bookshop is beautifully decorated, bursting with colour, and sells all the latest hardcovers and paperbacks for adults and children alike.

st ives bookshop

One easy-to-miss shop is Rose Lane, an independent seller of art and antiques. Inside, you’ll find vintage clothing, framed paintings, small pieces of furniture, classic collectibles, and plenty of strange trinkets to decorate your home with. Rose Lane is situated inside an old stone building, adding to that wonderful antique aesthetic.

rose lane
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The Best Japanese Restaurants in Glasgow https://booksandbao.com/best-japanese-restaurants-glasgow-scotland/ Wed, 27 Mar 2024 11:23:39 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=24493 Glasgow is the foodie capital of Scotland; that goes without saying. But this isn’t just down to the city’s gimmicky, fun, and oftentimes ridiculous snack inventions. It’s also down to how multicultural Glasgow is, and how imaginative and innovative its people are.

japanese restaurants glasgow

This can be seen most evidently in its selection of fantastic Japanese restaurants. So, if you’re looking for the best ramen, sushi, and Japanese curries in Scotland, you’ll find them in Glasgow. Here they are.

Mikaku

Mikaku can be found on Queen Street, a two-minute walk from St. Enoch subway station and Argyle Street Station, and it is without a doubt the best Japanese restaurant in Glasgow—perhaps in the whole of Scotland.

mikaku ramen

The first thing about Mikaku that will take your breath away is the restaurant’s design. Lit up by neon signs, and featuring cherry trees in bloom, Mikaku is designed after a Japanese yokocho (in Japan, yokocho are alleyways lined with small bars and restaurants). Lanterns hang from the ceiling; old posters advertising beer are plastered on the walls; booths and corners look like traditional shop fronts. This design is incredible.

mikaku glasgow

Then there are the cocktails, with names referencing aspects of Japanese tradition and pop culture (like A Kaiju Rises, which comes with a rubber tentacle sticking out of it). These cocktails were designed by an award-winning mixologist and every one is wonderfully unique.

mikaku cocktails

As for the menu, it features many essential izakaya staples—edamame beans, chicken karaage, furikake fries—but it’s the ramen that steals the show. You have a short list of ramen options, and every single one will blow your mind. The miso black is a work of art, and the best bowl of ramen Glasgow has to offer.

Ramen Dayo

Literally translated as “it’s ramen!” Ramen Dayo can be found off Byres Road in Glasgow’s West End, down the iconic Ashton Lane, opposite the Grosvenor Picture Theatre. It was opened by a Glaswegian who spent more than a decade living in Japan and missed the bowls of ramen that were at his fingertips.

ramen dayo

If you’ve ever been to a traditional Japanese izakaya, you’ll know how precise one would need to be in order to replicate its aesthetic details, but Ramen Dayo nails it—even down to the daruma dolls, scarred thick wooden tables, and walls plastered with posters on top of posters on top of posters.

ramen dayo glasgow

Given its name, it’s no surprise that Ramen Dayo specialises in ramen, and you’ll find a very broad and exciting selection. This means you’ll want to go back a few times to sample them all. Some are intensely garlicky, others hit that umami taste just right, and one is satisfyingly spicy. There’s something for everyone. Including bottles of Ramune!

Katsu

That’s it; that’s the name, and that’s what you get! You’ll find Katsu on West Nile Street, around the corner from Buchanan Street. I actually discovered Katsu on a weekend of flat-viewings as I planned my move to Glasgow, and it was probably this restaurant that convinced me how moving to Glasgow would be a very good idea (it was)!

katsu glasgow

Unsurprisingly, Katsu specialises in katsu in various forms. The lunch menu offers a variety of katsu sando (sandwiches) and the main menu has several different katsu curry options for you to choose from, including both meat and vegetarian options.

This restaurant in the heart of Glasgow also has a real izakaya feel; you’ll likely be eating at the bar, in sight of the chefs, and the space is cramped (though perhaps intimate might be a better choice of words). Katsu curry aficionados will feel very at-home here, enjoying the best katsu in Scotland.

Maki & Ramen

Much like Katsu, Maki & Ramen offers exactly what’s in its name. And while this is a chain with a few different branches in Edinburgh, this is the only one in Glasgow and it is a delight. Spacious, beautifully decorated, and covered with illustrated post-it notes which customers can add to as they please (a lovely touch).

maki and ramen

The Glasgow branch of Maki & Ramen is found on Bath Street, and it offers a wonderful sushi selection, as well as some hearty bowls of ramen. If you’re not afraid of tasting (and smelling like) garlic for at least the next twenty-four hours, definitely go for the black garlic tonkotsu; it’s phenomenal.

esushi

You’ll find esushi on Byres Road, in the heart of Glasgow’s West End, and despite its name it actually offers an enormous range of Japanese food options—soba, ramen, udon, donburi, takoyaki, sukiyaki, okonomiyaki—but of course it’s the sushi and sashimi that really shine, and the selection of sushi is truly mouth-watering.

There is a wide range of maki and nigiri options for you to browse, and each is made to perfection. You can even order a traditional bento box! To top all of this off is the drinks menu: sake, shochu, and umeshu are all available in various forms. This is the finest Japanese dining experience you’ll find in Glasgow.

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5 Days in Los Angeles (Complete LA Itinerary) https://booksandbao.com/5-days-in-los-angeles-la-itinerary/ Wed, 10 Jan 2024 15:16:00 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=16996 If you have 5 days in Los Angeles, these are the must-see and must-do things in LA. From hikes to galleries to amusement parks to beaches, this is Los Angeles.

5 days in los angeles

Los Angeles is an enormous city that spreads out in every direction for as far as the eye can see (or until it hits the ocean). And across all of that space is a lot of great food, art, sights, and sounds to enjoy.

Five days is the perfect amount of time to spend in LA in order to see the best tourist spots, natural splendour, and electric neighbourhoods. Here is how you should spend 5 days in Los Angeles.

Read More: A Seattle 3-Day Itinerary

How to Get Around LA

As we’ve already mentioned, LA is big. Really big. And unlike other metropolises like London and Tokyo, Los Angeles is a city of roads and cars. There is a subway but it’s really underdeveloped. If you want to get around easily during your 5 days in Los Angeles, you’ll need to be on the road. Here’s how to get around LA easily.

Uber/Lyft in LA

Constantly relying on Uber or Lyft to get you from place to place over the course of 5 days in Los Angeles sounds expensive, but it actually isn’t. To bring up London and Tokyo again, cities like those are renowned for their expensive car and taxi services. LA is different.

We’re assuming the cheapness of Uber in LA is down to its popularity. There aren’t many alternatives and it cannot be overstated just how spread out Los Angeles is. If you look at Google Maps and think a place looks within walking distance, it probably isn’t. You need a car.

The best option for getting around Los Angeles, therefore, is Uber or Lyft. Each trip is a necessity and an affordable one.

Speaking from personal experience, we were terrified and unprepared for the size of LA and how much we would have to rely on Uber and Lyft for getting around. We thought the costs would pile up but the reality turned out to surprise us.

Uber really is affordable and you can lean on it while you’re spending 5 days in Los Angeles.

Because of its popularity, Uber is also quick and efficient. You’ll get into some fun chats with drivers; you won’t be waiting long for a ride; you can rely on it to get you around quickly and affordably.

how to get around LA

LA Metro & Bus

If you’d like to save some money and get around using the public transport system in then we’d highly recommend picking up a TAP card. They are easily available at TAP machines located within the bus or subway stations and work across the bus and metro system. Just load up your money at the machine. 

You can use the Metro Planner to plan your journey or Google Maps.
There are three types of metro buses in LA, the orange one which makes frequent stops at major attractions and spots around the city, the red rapid buses which make fewer stops but are much quicker, and the express blue buses which are typically for commuters.

The metro train includes two subway lines and four light-rail lines with the red line being the most useful for tourists (here are the lines). You tap your card before getting on the train and will be charged a regular fare of  $1.75 for a two hour journey with unlimited transfer.

Read More: Grab Your Holiday Read! 13 Best Books Set in LA

Hiring a Car in LA

Hiring a car in Los Angeles won’t be for everyone. If you’re a US or Canadian citizen, you’ll be used to the roads and far less intimidated by the idea. If you’re European, like us, hiring a car in LA might not be something you have the confidence to do.

Speaking from experience, it’s actually very chill and easy. You go to a local car hire place, like you would anywhere else, and hire a car for however long you want it.

We haven’t driven in LA specifically but we have driven in Portland, Oregon and New York. Driving in the US is fun and exciting. The roads are wide open and drivers are a lot more polite than British drivers.

Because of the sheer size of Los Angeles, travelling by car is your best option. That means either getting several Uber lifts per day or hiring your own car. The choice is yours.

Read More: A Native Angeleno’s Guide to the Best 9 Bookstores in LA

LA Itinerary Day 1: Relax on Venice Beach

Venice is one of the chillest neighbourhoods in LA. It’s a great place to stay if you want to start each of your 5 days in Los Angeles with good food, a relaxed atmosphere, and the sound of the waves.

venice beach pier los angeles

Even if you don’t base yourself in Venice, Venice Beach is still the first place you should head, in order to see LA at its coolest.

Venice Beach has plenty to see and enjoy. Start off by walking the canals and seeing how the eccentric residents of Venice live. From there, head to the iconic Venice sign and tuck into Menotti’s Coffee Stop for a top-up. This coffee shop is nestled right beneath the sign.

venice canal los angeles

From here, wander over to Muscle Beach and enjoy the vibes. Sunbathers, skaters, dancers, lads playing basketball and volleyball. It’s exactly how you imagine it and the atmosphere is both relaxing and electrifying.

On Venice Beach, you’ll find an awesome vintage clothing store by the name of Gotta Have It, as well as one of LA’s coolest bookstores: Small World Books. This bookstore is vast and loaded with some of the best indie books from indie presses (US-based and beyond!)

venice beach boardwalk

From Muscle Beach, wander south towards Venice Fishing Pier. Before you do, however, grab a slice to walk with from Big Daddy’s Pizza. Or, if you prefer sandwiches, head next door to Banh Mi Ba Nam for some outstanding Vietnamese banh mi.

restaurants venice beach

Where to Eat in Venice Beach

Aside from the aforementioned Big Daddy’s Pizza and Banh Mi Ba Nam, which are both perfect for lunch, your best spot for dinner is Mao’s Kitchen. This is Venice Beach’s iconic Chinese restaurant/takeout.

If you’ve never had Chinese food in the US before (or even if you have), you are in for a treat here. Mao’s Kitchen is a treasure trove of the most sweet and indulgent Chinese food in Los Angeles, and a must-try for visitors to Venice Beach. It’s also right next to the famous Venice sign.

Where to Stay in Venice Beach

venice beach sign

The best hotel in Venice Beach is, without a doubt, The Venice Beach House. Built in 1911, this is what the person who invented the world “haven” was picturing.

Staying at The Venice Beach House is an absolute pleasure. The rooms are decorated with love; the lighting and aesthetics are designed to soothe and nourish. Breakfast at this hotel will be the healthiest and most delicious meal you’ll ever enjoy.

the venice beach house hotel

The Venice Beach House is also situated right behind Venice Fishing Pier, a 30-second walk from the sand. If you’ve got 5 days in Los Angeles, this is where you need to stay, especially if you want to be right on the beach.

LA Itinerary Day 2: Visit Echo Park and Do Some Sightseeing

We’d recommend basing yourself near Echo Park for the rest of your 5 days in Los Angeles. The area’s got a great vibe, open and relaxed, highly walkable with lots of local independent places, murals, vintage shops, and galleries to enjoy.

It’s also convenient to get everywhere in LA from Echo Park, whereas being based at Venice Beach for the whole week will have you spending a lot of the time using transport. If you’ve got 5 days in Los Angeles, this is a good central location.

The Los Angeles skyline and lake at Echo Park, in Los Angeles, California

Morning

There are some great cafes to get breakfast at near Echo Park. We loved Stories Books and Cafe on Sunset Boulevard for bagels, great coffee, and some times with the books. They’re open from 10am-8pm daily.

For an earlier start, Bloom and Plume on W. Temple Street is open from 8am, also has a great coffee and fabulous avocado toast with flower petals on. Follow up with a stroll around Echo Park, or maybe hop on a peddle boat, before getting started with the day.

Afternoon

We were excited to see the architecture of the Walt Disney Concert Hall so headed straight there to get pictures, you may also want to catch a show depending on your free time as this is the home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, presenting the best in classical music, contemporary music, world music and jazz.

walt disney concert hall LA

From there it’s an easy two-minute walk to The Broad, LA’s famous art museum where you can experience Yayoi Kusama’s infinity room (though you will have to pick up a ticket and wait your turn for this one) and see other famous modern art by the likes of Andy Warhol.

the broad museum la

Tip: From here it’s an easy detour (10-20 mins walk) if you’d like to see Little Tokyo or Chinatown (which you definitely should if you have 5 days in Los Angeles) and pick up a snack.

Late afternoon

From The Broad it’s an eight minutes walk to South Broadway where you can see some of LA’s other famous spots like the Bradbury Building which was famously used as a set in the original Bladerunner Film.

Built in 1983, it’s a must for architecture lovers with its iron framework and Victorian gothic vibes. You can step inside to take pictures and climb the stairs alongside the other people doing exactly the same.

bradbury building la 5 day itinerary

A few minutes walk from the Bradbury Building is The Last Bookstore, a favourite amongst book lovers and Instagrammers thanks to its imaginative bookish displays that encourage photography and the fact it’s covered in local art.

the last bookshop la

It’s California’s largest used and new bookstore and has a genuinely gorgeous interior with nooks and themed rooms to explore. You’ll also find records and a seating area to relax in after wandering this huge book haven.

bookshop art LA

Tip: The Downtown Los Angeles Art Walk starts around the corner from the bookstore if you want to see local galleries, artist studio’s, as well as handicrafts and food trucks.

Dinner

We’re in our element at a food hall and we’re happy to say that the Grand Central Market does not disappoint. It’s got a long history being a downtown landmark since 1917 and regularly hosts events and movie nights.

From exceptional Chinese food, Japanese bento, to tacos, grill, stonebaked pizzas and more there’s absolutely something for everyone here with indoor and outdoor seating to meet back at and enjoy. Check out their website for events and vendors. 

grand central market LA

Where to stay in Echo Park:

There are plenty of Airbnbs to choose from in Echo Park or nearby Silver Lake which is what we went for, if you prefer a hotel then The Lexmar is within easy walking distance of the park and other attractions and if you’re looking for something fancy then the gorgeous Millennium Biltmore might be what you’re looking for.

LA Itinerary Day 3: Have a Day Trip at an LA Theme Park or Botanical Garden

There are quite a few day trips from LA to choose from if you have 5 days in Los Angeles, and each one offers something fun and cultural for you to enjoy. It’s up to you which one you choose, based on what you love, but here’s what’s on offer and what you can expect.

Universal Studios LA

Universal Studios is easy to get to, located just north of Hollywood, and you can either drive there yourself or take an Uber to get there.

What you’ll find when you arrive is a fantastic theme park, packed with a full day’s worth of awesome things to do. Roller coasters and other rides, based on Hollywood blockbusters; a full recreation of Hogwarts Castle and Hodsmead for you to explore; restaurants and gift shops galore.

wizarding world of harry potter

Check out our full guide to Universal Studios LA to find out how exactly to spend one of your 5 days in Los Angeles at Universal Studios.

This is certainly one of the quickest and easiest LA day trips on offer.

Disneyland

Disneyland is outside of LA and situated in Anaheim, Orange County, it’s also the original Disney Park meaning it’s a major bucket list destination for a lot of people. As the park is much smaller than Disney World (and many other Disneyland Parks) it’s very walkable and ideal for a day trip.

You can also experience the new Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge which is a must for fans of the franchise, and we, personally, will take any chance to meet Kylo Ren. We’d recommend picking up a FastPass to speed things up through the day.

Disneyland LA

How to get to Disneyland from LA

You can reach the park by bus, train, or car. We’d recommend leaving early to try and avoid rush hour. The Metro bus’ 460 line direct to Disneyland entrance leaves from downtown at Flower and 7th Streets. It’s a two-hour ride that costs around $2.

The train, leaving from Union Station, takes you as far as Fullerton Amtrak Station where you will then need to catch a bus to the park. The total journey is also two hours. A car journey or minibus is much quicker.

Huntington Library, Art Collections & Botanical Gardens 

If theme parks aren’t your thing then we highly recommend a visit to Huntingdon Library. Once the home of Henry Edwards Huntington and his wife Arabella Duval Huntington, this is one of the most stunning Japanese and Chinese inspired gardens to visit in the US and that’s without exploring the art and literature collection inside.

There are 120 acres of grounds open to the public including themed gardens like the English Shakespeare Garden and the Desert Garden with impressive cacti and succulents growing.

japanese garden la


While many of the six million books are reserved for researchers, there are some real beauties on display to the public including a Gutenberg Bible and the earliest known edition of Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales. The gallery is equally as notable, in particular, for its British paintings including works by Turner, Blake, and 

Tip: After Huntington, explore Pasadena and enjoy gems like the Tea Rose Garden (which serves fifty types of tea) and Vroman’s bookstore which is the largest in Southern California.

How to get to The Huntington

Located near Pasadena in San Marino, it’s an easy and quick day trip from downtown LA, taking just twenty minutes by car or Uber or an hour on public transport (which includes a twenty-minute walk from the station). 

LA Itinerary Day 4: Hollywood, Museums & Downtown 

Now, it’s time to explore Hollywood — one of the biggest reasons anyone spends 5 days in Los Angeles — after getting in some local culture at the best LA museums and galleries.

Morning: LACMA

Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) is one of the most impressive places in all of California. Crossing six thousand years of art from every part of our planet, LACMA hosts a collection of more than a hundred thousand art pieces.

The exhibitions at LACMA change frequently, giving you every reason to visit frequently to see what has changed and what’s new. LA has a really fantastic art scene, and LACMA plays an important role in that so make sure you visit during your 5 days in Los Angeles.

Tip: If you want breakfast and coffee near LACMA, visit Coffee Attic.

Afternoon: Hollywood

We all have our own ideas of what Hollywood is. For many people, Hollywood is an idea; a name given to the American cinema industry. And while that’s true, it’s also just a neighbourhood with plenty of iconic sights to see. With 5 days in Los Angeles, Hollywood is an absolute must.

Drive or take an Uber to Hollywood Boulevard and take a stroll down the Hollywood Walk of Fame. This is a length of Hollywood Boulevard paved with stars; within each star is the name of a celebrity from throughout American history.

hollywood walk of fake

It’s exciting to stroll down this stretch and stumble across the star of a beloved celebrity. The first star we saw upon exiting out Uber for the first time was Charlie Chaplin. It’s a simple but satisfying buzz that really stays with you, given the cultural history of the place and the people immortalised there.

In the Hollywood area, you’ll also find places like the Capitol Records Building, Hollywood Wax Museum, and the absolutely iconic TCL Chinese Theatre, the place where new Hollywood movies have been premiering for decades. If you’re a cinema history buff, you can take a fantastic behind-the-scenes walking tour of Hollywood.

North of the Hollywood neighbourhood, you’ll find the Hollywood sign, which can be seen from the streets of Hollywood but also easily reached by booking a guided tour hike.

hollywood sign

Tip: If you need refreshments during your afternoon of exploring Hollywood, head to Sunset Boulevard and get coffee and snack at: Groundwork Coffee Co.

Evening: Griffith Observatory

Not far from the Hollywood sign, tucked into the hills of Griffith Park, is the legendary Griffith Observatory. Views of Los Angeles from here are mesmerising, particularly in the evening, and the observatory itself offers visitors a planetarium and telescopes which you can try out for yourself.

The hiking trails surrounding the observatory provide plenty of sights, including the Bird Sanctuary and more wonderful views from Glendale Peak.

Where to Eat

One of the best restaurants in Los Angeles is easily Yuko Kitchen. They currently have two locations in LA: one in Wilshire, and the other in Downtown Los Angeles (DTLA), and their menu offers vegan and gluten free options.

The Japanese-inspired menu mostly consists of delicious rice bowls and udon, as well as salads, sides, and a huge host of cookies. Yuko Kitchen is a happy, healthy, delightful place to eat in LA that we can’t recommend highly enough.

yuko's kitchen LA

LA Itinerary Day 5: Get to Know LA Your Way

If you only have 5 days in Los Angeles, there are going to be certain things you’ll want to prioritise. Everything we’ve mentioned for days 1-4 are essential things to do in Los Angeles, but it’s up to you how you want to spend your final day.

Here are some of our favourite destinations in LA. Most of them can be enjoyed for free so it’s great if you’ve blown your budget over the course of the trip. You can choose how to spend the last of your 5 days in Los Angeles, but there are all our biggest suggestions.

Take a food tour

California is known for its food culture. Some of the most healthy and delicious food options in the United States can be found in LA. To really see the sheer breadth of delicious international flavours that LA has to offer, you need to take a food tour of LA.

This LA food tour will take you everywhere, from Korea Town to Little Tokyo, as well as the best restaurants in Glendale, Hollywood, and Santa Monica.

Visit the Getty Center

Like LACMA, the Getty Center is an incredible art institution with an impressive mission: to foster enjoyment and understanding of art, all art, from all around the world. The sheer scope and scale of what the Getty Center has to offer is jaw-dropping.

view of los angeles

From local California art to the global history of art, the Getty Center offers visitors a unique experience of visual media. If you’re excited to visit the galleries and museums of Los Angeles, make sure to head to the Getty Center.

Read More: Discover the Best Tattoo Artists in LA

Relax at Santa Monica Pier

If you want the last of your 5 days in Los Angeles to be both chill and exciting, take a trip to Santa Monica Pier. It’s here that you’ll find the Pacific Park amusement park, as well as arcades, pubs, shops, restaurants, and an amazing 1920s carousel.

Hike Runyon Canyon

Up for one final hike before you leave LA? Runyon Canyon Park offers a great alternative to Griffith Park. The Runyon Canyon trail provides outstanding views of Hollywood, spreading out into the rest of LA in the distance. It gives visitors an amazing final look at Los Angeles before they leave.

Wander Sunset Boulevard

Sunset Boulevard is enormous, but the stretch that you’re looking for is where Book Soup can be found. This iconic LA bookstore hosts regular events and is located a few doors down (and across the street) from the famous nightlife spot Whisky a Go Go. This stretch of Sunset Boulevard is gorgeous and well worth a stroll before leaving LA.

Explore Beverly Hills and Rodeo Drive

Rodeo Drive small stretch of road in Beverly Hills which is defined by its luxury (and that scene from Pretty Woman). The best and most expensive shopping and dining experiences in LA can be found here so, if you’ve got some leftover cash burning a hole in your pocket, spend your last afternoon in LA browsing the stores of Rodeo Drive.

We hope you enjoyed this 5 day LA itinerary, if you enjoyed reading then please consider sharing.

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Gladstone’s Library: The Hotel Library in Wales You Have to Visit https://booksandbao.com/gladstones-library-retreat-north-wales/ Fri, 17 Nov 2023 14:23:41 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=3235 Gladstone's Hotel

Hidden in a quaint village by the name of Hawarden in North Wales, six miles from the beautiful city of Chester, Gladstone’s Library is a lot of wonderful things: the only residential library in the UK, the UK’s only prime-ministerial library, and the best place, in our humble opinion, to spend a weekend on the whole bloody island.

We spent two nights at this hotel/library/paradise hybrid, exploring the grounds, reading Gladstone’s books, relaxing by the fire, and chatting with likeminded people about politics and history, enjoying perhaps the best weekend of our lives.

Watch a video of our stay at Gladstone’s Library Hotel

Gladstone’s Library: The Incredible History

William Gladstone was an amazing man. Son to a slave-trader, Gladstone dove straight into British politics out of university, serving in the Conservative Party. In a rare political shift, Gladstone became more liberal through the course of his life, eventually forming the Liberal Party, and then serving as Britain’s Prime Minister four times (to this day, he is the UK’s longest-serving PM). Gladstone moved dramatically away from everything he had come from, famously opposing the Opium War with China, fighting to rein-in unfair landlords, crusading for home rule in Ireland, and aiding Bulgaria in their fight against the Ottoman Empire.

Gladstones Hotel

Aside from all he did for liberal politics, Gladstone also owned and read 22,000 books in his lifetime (this averages at five books per week). He spoke several languages, including Latin, and annotated his books in detail. He was an avid reader of theology and history, specifically, and before his death he built a big shed library to house all of his books. After his death, in accordance to his wishes, this shed was dismantled to make room for the incredible Gladstone’s Library which still stands today.

Why Gladstone’s Library is Better than Disneyland

For lovers of literature, those who want nothing more than a quiet retreat for a weekend away, or those who simply enjoy the atmosphere of being around books, sitting with a glass of red by the fireside on a wing-backed chair, and talking politics, there is no better place than Gladstone’s.

Jessica Esa Gladstones Hotel

The atmosphere in this place is staggering. The library is open to the public, and many local people and students some to find a quiet place to study. The rooms are quaint and homey, and purposefully lacking in TV, placing an emphasis on quiet reading and writing. Although you do get a lovely Roberts Radio to listen to.

The building itself has a stately home design, making one feel like they are living through a season of Downton Abbey. The staff are kind and helpful; they love their jobs, and I can see why. It’s a place of friendliness and chatter; the kind of place where you’ll strike up a conversation with a stranger in a way you never would out in the cold real world.

Gladstones Hotel

To give a personal example, we were due to start a tour of the library when a man named Gordon, who had until a few years back been Gladstone’s in-house chaplain, came to tell us a little of the building’s history. He met us again at dinner and told us everything we could ever hope to know about the man himself, William Gladstone. After retiring to the common room for coffee, Gordon introduced us to a visiting professor of British History from Tennessee who sat with us for hours, discussing American and British history, the class system, and the state of Brexit and Trump’s America. It was a wonderful experience that could only have happened at this wonderful place, the kind of place that invites these kinds of experiences.


Read More: 11 Stunning Places to Visit in Wales

Festivals and Events at Gladstone

Beyond your average weekend away, Gladstone’s also offers various events like writer’s retreats, festivals, and lessons from Writer’s in Residence. The upcoming Hearth Festival on 2nd February invites four novelists to speak and give intimate advice to budding writers who wish to attend and learn from the best. These festival takes place in the common room, surrounded by books and bordered by a fireplace on opposite walls. The festivals and events at Gladstone’s are so much more intimate than your typical festival experience, putting comfort and friendliness at the forefront of the experience.

If you’d rather a busier literary event then look no further than Gladfest in September (6th – 8th), rooms will book fast for this one if you’re hoping to stay as there will be writers in residence.

Gladstones Hotel

Food and Drink

There’s a restaurant on-site ‘Food for Thought‘ which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and is open for snacks and coffee throughout the day.  They even offer a beautiful afternoon tea and Sunday lunch (which need to be pre-booked). There’s plenty to choose from and it is all homemade and very reasonably priced. Eating in the restaurant with the other guests feels very cozy and wholesome, far more than anything we’ve ever experienced in a hotel before; and many of the customers are regulars from the village who want to come and enjoy the atmosphere.

If you’d like to eat out, there are some lovely cafes, a pub, and restaurants in the village that are within walking distance and you get to walk back to this stunning grade-1 listed building all over again!

Jessica Esa Gladstone's Library Hotel

Come and Stay Here

The care and love given to books and those who love them is staggering at Gladstone’s Library. To walk amongst his private collection of 22,000 books gives you goosebumps. Staying for a night or two or three means having access to such a wealth of knowledge, and a place to forget your stresses, read some books in utter peace and calm, and maybe even find the inspiration to write a story of your own.

You can book a room at Gladstone’s Library here. We’ll definitely be going back.

For more bookish fun in Wales, visit Hay on Wye – the beloved book town!

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12 Essential Books to Read Before Visiting South Korea https://booksandbao.com/7-books-to-read-before-travelling-to-south-korea/ https://booksandbao.com/7-books-to-read-before-travelling-to-south-korea/#comments Tue, 10 Oct 2023 11:29:30 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=4422 South Korea is a fascinating country with a rich history and culture. In recent decades, it has also become a major economic and technological power. As a result, there is a growing interest in South Korea from people all over the world.

South Korean literature is among the most beloved in the world, and immersing yourself in some fantastic Korean books is sure to enrich your travel experience.

visit south korea

South Korea is one of the most popular countries to visit, move to, and work in right now. A lot of that is down to K-pop and K-dramas, but there is such an amazing wealth of beautiful literature and a long and fascinating history beyond all of that.

Korean Books to Read Before You Visit South Korea

This list of fiction and non-fiction books about Korea is designed to introduce readers to South Korea from a variety of perspectives.

It includes books on Korean history and the Korean war, culture, and literature. Some of the books are written by Korean authors, while others are written by those who have lived in or studied in South Korea.

Let’s jump in.

Korea: A New History of South and North by Victor Cha and Ramon Pacheco Pardo

korea a new history of south and north

In one of the newer books about Korean history, authors Victor Cha and Ramon Pacheco Pardo draw on decades of research to explore the complex story of this divided nation. They examine Korea’s unique common history, as well as the sharp differences between North and South that have emerged since the Cold War division.

The book also sheds light on the evolving identities of the two Koreas, and the prospects for unification. It is an essential read for anyone who wants to understand Korea’s past, present, and what possibilities there are in the future.

Buy a copy of Korea: A New History of South and North

Human Acts by Han Kang

Translated by Deborah Smith

han kang human acts

Han Kang made waves in the world of literature a few years back when her novel The Vegetarian was awarded the Booker International Prize 2016 (also translated by Deborah Smith). Her book, Human Acts, however, is arguably a more raw and political story.

Human Acts sheds light on the criminally lesser-known political suppression of South Korea that lasted until the Gwangju Uprising of 1980.

From multiple perspectives, including that of the ghost of a boy killed during the uprising, we get to see the turmoil, tears, and bloodshed that led to the vibrant and prosperous nation we have today.

Read More: If you’re looking for Korean short stories then check out the Yeoyu series.

Buy a copy of Human Acts here.

At Dusk by Hwang Sok-yong

Translated by Sora Kim-Russell

at dusk hwang sok-yong

One of South Korea’s most prestigious novelists brought us this work in translation recently, in 2018.

It tells two stories: that of a rags-to-riches architect looking back on his life and childhood in a kind of Citizen Kane way, and that of a young woman struggling to forge herself a career in theatre.

At Dusk is a fantastic mirror held up to the disparate classes, artists, and businessmen of Korea today, and it’s a real tear-jerker to boot. Read our review of At Dusk right here.

Buy a copy of At Dusk

Our Korean Kitchen

our korean kitchen

Written by married couple Jordan Bourke and Jejina Pyo. Bourke is a renowned chef and, working together with his wife and her cultural expertise, they have welded together a fun and engaging cookbook that teaches us all the ins and outs of Korean home cooking.

Our Korean Kitchen is easy to follow and the tantalising pictures are a wonderful motivation, we had great success with the kimchi recipe! Before you head to Korea, it’s good to know what to expect, food-wise.

Maybe even cook some for yourself. You’re certain to fall in love with Korean food, so best to get a head-start. Here are six of the recipes from the book for free.

Buy a copy of Our Korean Kitchen

Read More: 12 Best Korean Cookbooks Available Now

A History of Korea by Kyung Moon Hwang

a history of korea

If you want an introduction to Korean history before you visit South Korea, this is the best book to pick up. A History of Korea concisely covers every major change and event that has led Korea to where it is today. It avoids being dry by favouring brevity and clarity.

Everything you need to know about Korean history can be found and enjoyed here, covering a whopping 1.5 millennia of Korean history (both North and South).

Important themes that define Korean culture are explored with detail and enthusiasm, giving you not only a lesson in Korean history but an insight into Korean social and political behaviour. A really enlightening read and an essential book to read before you visit South Korea.

Buy a copy of History of Korea

The New Koreans by Michael Breen

the new koreans michael breen

Written by a man who has spent many years living in and studying the world of South Korea. The New Koreans is a fascinating exploration of the economics, history, and politics of Korea today.

The country is now rich and prosperous. It builds some of the best tech money can buy. And it has the biggest pop music industry. How did it get here? Read this book to find out.

The New Koreans by Michael Breen

Love in the Big City by Sang Young Park

love in the big city sang young park

translated by Anton Hur

Love in the Big City is a queer Korean love story. It is a tale of hedonism and friendship; a book about looking at life from all angles: with love and hate and anger and fear in our eyes.

Translated elegantly and beautifully by Anton Hur, Love in the Big City considers how we live our lives when time is ticking, when there is fun to be had and things to be seen; when there are things to fear and people who want to hurt us.

Love in the Big City paints a raw and honest but ultimately kind picture of love and life in the modern day, and for that, it is one of the finest modern Korean novels.

Buy a copy of Love in the Big City

The Korean War by Max Hastings

The korean War Max Hastings

I don’t know about you but the Korean War was not covered at all when I was in school. Hastings’ book is not an easy read, but it is an essential one for anyone who wants to understand the Korean War and its impact on the world.

His writing is clear and concise, and he does an excellent job of explaining the complex military and political issues that were at stake. We found a traumatic, bloody, and captivating story of civil unrest, political divides, and Western interference.

The Korean War by Max Hastings will teach you everything you need to know about the story of the Korean War. Everyone should know more about what divided the North and South and the lasting legacy of that decision.

Buy a copy of The Korea War

Read More: Here are some useful travel articles to check out before you visit South Korea.

The Court Dancer by Kyung-sook Shin

Translated by Anton Hur

The Court Dancer Kyung-Sook Shin

Based on a true story — set in the final years of 19th century Korea as China, Russia, and Japan are threatening the nation trapped between them — The Court Dancer is being described as a love story first and foremost: the romantic tale of a man and a woman from two different worlds, colliding in a moment of beauty.

This is the tale of a woman born without a family, adopted into the courts of the Joseon Dynasty, romanced by a French diplomat, whisked away across the waves to foreign shores, and all the while trying to find the time to understand who she is, what she is, and what she wants out of a life that has never really been hers.

If you want to understand pre-Korean War history and see what European globalisation looks like from an Eastern perspective, this book will prove illuminating.

Visiting Korea’s beautiful palaces after reading this book is a real treat. Read our review of The Court Dancer right here or learn more about Anton Hur.

Buy a copy of The Court Dancer

Hello, South Korea: Meet the Country Behind Hallyu

hello, south korea

In a sea of books about Korean culture, this one is an easily accessible and colourful exploration of the country and culture that has captivated the world. From its rich history and unique customs to its vibrant pop culture and global exports, this book has something to offer everyone.

Go beyond the surface of Hallyu and discover the real Korea. Learn about the country’s long and fascinating history, from its days as the Hermit Kingdom to its modern-day status as a global powerhouse. Meet the people who have shaped the country and its culture, from the incredible haenyeo divers of Jeju Island to the K-pop stars who have taken the world by storm.

Of course, no book about Korea would be complete without a discussion of its food and fashion. From the diverse varieties of kimchi to the popular glass skin beauty trend, you’ll learn all about the culinary and fashion delights that Korea has to offer.

Buy a copy of Hello, South Korea

Read More: Best Korean Snacks and Where to Buy Them

Drifting House by Krys Lee

Drifting House Krys Lee

Written by a woman born in Seoul but raised in the US, this is a gripping and desperately sorrowful collection of short stories which shine a light on the darker side of Korean society over the past hundred years.

Drifting House looks at the salarymen of Seoul, the starving children of North Korea, and the alienated immigrants attempting to settle in the US.

It is Korea and Koreans as viewed from every angle, and a truly wondrous book that teaches us empathy, history, politics, and humanity. An absolute must-read.

Buy a copy of Drifting House

Flowers of Fire by Hawon Jung

flowers of fire

Flowers of Fire is a must-read for anyone interested in feminism, gender equality, and the #MeToo movement. Jung, the former Seoul correspondent for the AFP, draws on her on-the-ground reporting and interviews with many women who became activists and leaders to tell the story of the South Korean #MeToo movement.

The book highlights the courage and resilience of South Korean women in the face of threats, defamation lawsuits, and a criminal justice system that often sides with abusers. Jung’s writing is both informative and inspiring, and she does an excellent job of explaining the complex issues at stake.

Flowers of Fire is an essential read for anyone who wants to understand the #MeToo movement in South Korea and its impact on the global conversation about feminism and gender equality.

Buy a copy of Flowers of Fire

Read More: Thinking of taking a trip to Japan or China? Here’s what to read before you go

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24 Hours in Higashiyama & Gion (A Kyoto Itinerary) https://booksandbao.com/24-hours-higashiyama-kyoto-itinerary/ Thu, 14 Sep 2023 11:06:00 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=7383 Home to everything that traditional Kyoto has to offer, photogenic districts like Higashiyama and Gion plunge you into a world of Shinto shrines, rickshaws, cobblestone streets, and Buddhist temples. Far from sleepy, however, you can also enjoy boutique shopping, sake bars, cafes, and tea shops without ever leaving this dynamic neighbourhood.

Traditional japanese houses on Shirakawa river, Gion district, Kyoto, Japan

Discover historical Kyoto with this Higasyiyama and Gion Neighborhood Guide

Wander the district at sunset to see geiko (geishas) heading to their evening work. During the day, visit the magnificent Maruyama Park, best strolled through on a sunny day and especially during the spring hanami season.

Kyoto is known for being one of the great historic cities of East Asia, and Higashiyama and Gion are a big part of the reason why. When you think temples, parks, cherry blossoms (sakura), geisha, rikshaws, ryokans, you’re thinking of Higashiyama and Gion. That’s the legacy of this marvellous and tranquil district of Kyoto.

Breakfast in Higashiyama: Tamagoyaki

japanese-breakfast

Starting the day off with a solid breakfast is very much part of Japanese culture. In fact, the traditional Japanese word for breakfast — asagohan — literally means ‘morning rice bowl’. One of the best places to try a hearty local breakfast consisting of tamagoyaki (omelet – literally ‘cooked egg’), fresh, warm rice, grilled salmon, pickles, and miso soup is at Roji Usagi.

The views of their garden are picturesque making this a tranquil and healthy start to your day. Everything on the menu is hearty and warming.

Not only is it guaranteed to fill you up for a day of exploring, but it’s also a perfect encapsulation of all that is good in a traditional Japanese breakfast: eggs, fish, rice, and miso soup, all present and all cooked to perfection. You can’t get a better start to the day.

Read More: Japanese Language Essentials and Travel Phrases

Morning in Higashiyama: Sannenzaka & Ninenzaka

sannenzaka-and-ninenzaka | 24 Hours in Higashiyama
©JNTO

Take a fifteen-minute walk from Roji Usagi, and you’ll come to the historic lanes Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, two of the city’s most well-preserved streets. These two lanes are what Kyoto is all about, and they’re one of the most atmospheric and traditionally picturesque parts of Higashiyama.

Here, you can buy local Japanese delicacies, arts and crafts like furoshiki cloths, and other souvenirs. You can also simply wander and admire the gorgeous traditional Japanese architecture. The streets have several cafes to choose from if you need a caffeine hit mid-morning, including the sleek Arabica Kyoto—a real local favourite and known to serve some of the best coffee in the city. 

If you’re hoping to try on some traditional clothing, there are also several kimono rental shops in this area, and the backdrop is perfect—as in, you can’t really get more perfect. Wearing a kimono and strolling the lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka will transport you back to Edo Japan better than anything else ever could (rent a kimono for the day here).

Lunch in Higashiyama: Oshizushi

pressed-sushi

One of Kyoto’s specialties is Oshizushi, or ‘pressed sushi’. Izuju is a local favourite, famous for its high-quality mackerel oshizushi. It’s a perfect size for lunch and really provides a perfect sampling of the local cuisine.

Almost every town in Japan has its own cuisine — something that was born there (Osaka, for example, has both okonomiyaki and kushikatsu). Well, Kyoto has oshizushi, its own unique style of preparing sushi. And the mackerel is the most flavourful of the lot.

If you don’t fancy sitting indoors, you can get their sushi to go and eat it in Maruyama Park and admire Yasaka Shrine. Picnics in the park are a beloved part of Japanese culture so you won’t be alone. If it’s cherry blossom season, don’t miss the famous shidarezakura weeping cherry tree in the park.

Read More: Explore outside the main city and find Kyoto’s Hidden Spots.

Afternoon in Higashiyama: Maruyama Park

maruyama-park | A Day in Higashiyama Kyoto
©JNTO

Continue through Maruyama Park until you reach Chion-in, a stunning Buddhist temple complex built in 1618. Depending on the day you visit, various services occur at the temple, which you can quietly witness and learn a thing or two about the importance of Buddhist traditions in Kyoto.

Towards the end of the park is the grand Shōren-in Monzeki Temple, a serene space with bamboo groves to wander and historic shrines to visit. Finally, stroll out of the park to the nearby Tatsumi Bridge, one of the most scenic bridges in the city, to take pictures and enjoy the view before dinner.

Top Tip: Take a night walking tour in Gion to see the geisha, learn about kimono, geisha hairstyles and more

If you have extra time, you’ll find Kahitsukan, Kyoto Modern Art Museum, which is an ideal way to see some of the photography and art of modern Kyoto to juxtapose the historical atmosphere. Not everything in Kyoto is historic, after all.

The artists — both young and old — who live there today are producing some incredible contemporary artwork which you can see on display at Kahitsukan.

Exploring the museum is a great way to really digest the ways in which Kyoto has maintained its ties to tradition and historic architecture, while still being able to move on into the realms of modern art. Japan really does blend it’s old and it’s new so beautifully.

Dinner in Higashiyama: Wagyu Steak

wagyu-steak - kyoto - japan
©JNTO

A day in Kyoto isn’t complete without some wagyu beef, and Premium Wagyu Steak Hanasato is an ideal choice. This restaurant offers Teppanyaki style (pan-fried) meals in relaxed surroundings where you can really unwind and tuck into your meal after a long day.

Watch the chefs in action as they work like artists while enjoying premium cuts of grilled steak and seasonal local ingredients from Kyoto. There’s also a great wine and sake list to choose from, which all goes very well with wagyu steak.

Read More: Books to Read Before You Visit Japan

‘After Hours’ in Higashiyama

kabuki-minamisa

There are two options for spending the evening in Higashiyama: either catch a show at Minami-za, Japan’s oldest kabuki theatre, where you can witness a colourful performance made popular during the Edo period.

Or you can head to one of Kyoto’s fantastic bars. If it’s the latter, then how about choosing from a list of 500 whiskeys (both Japanese and international) a sake or a custom cocktail at Gion Samboa, a classic Japanese bar that originally opened in 1918?

Read More: 24 Hours in Daimyo, Fukuoka

Where to Stay in Higashiyama

Gion Hatanaka Ryokan: This friendly ryokan with spacious rooms and ensuite bathtubs is perfect if you want to be in the centre of the historic district and experience some of the best of traditional Japanese culture. They offer large dinners combined with geisha performances which is an enchanting way to spend the evening in Higashiyama.

Bonus: If you love geisha and want to treat yourself then we highly recommend this Maiko makeover photoshoot

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Ambassade Hotel: A Cultural Haven in the Heart of Amsterdam https://booksandbao.com/ambassade-hotel-amsterdam/ Mon, 04 Sep 2023 17:14:59 +0000 https://booksandbao.com/?p=11341 The Ambassade Hotel is synonymous with literature and art, and there really is no match for culture lovers looking for a wholesome place to stay that satisfies the mind, eyes, and stomach.

ambassade hotel amsterdam

The hotel is striking from the moment you approach it, stretching across sixteen 17th century canal houses on Herengracht and Singel, the heart of old Amsterdam. It’s the epitome of romantic, with a view of the canal and colourful houses opposite.

It’s no surprise that the hotel was named one of the top five independent hotels in the world for art lovers when you step inside and start to notice the artwork.

These are the first glimpses that make up the collection of 800 works by COBRA artists displayed here. These pieces include sculptures and paintings by artists such as Corneille Eugene Brands and Theo Wolvecamp.

library bar ambassade hotel

This alone would make the Ambassade Hotel a worthy choice until you look left and catch a glimpse of The Library Bar which houses over five thousand signed books. This is not simply an impressive collection but a memento of every author who has stayed at the hotel.

You’ll even find a shelf of books where the hotel has been specifically mentioned showing how important this space is to the literary community and what an impression it makes.

The bar itself is a perfect place to while away the evening after exploring historic Amsterdam or indulging in a fabulous three-course dinner at the Brasserie Ambassade.

Read More: Beautiful Bookshops in Amsterdam

library bar ambassade hotel

Staying at the Ambassade Hotel is a unique experience and can easily be considered an Amsterdam attraction in its own right. Find out what to expect from your stay at the Ambassade Hotel and what they offer specifically for art, literature, and history lovers.

bedroom ambassade hotel

A Cultural Haven in the Heart of Amsterdam

The location of the Ambassade Hotel is ideal for exploring the nearby museums of Amsterdam, in fact, you can reach almost anywhere within twenty minutes of walking or a shorter cycle.

Next to the famous Nine Streets area brimming with boutique shops, art galleries, and vintage stores, there’s no better location for exploring, and for those looking to do some book shopping, you’ll find Amsterdam’s best bookshops within a few minutes.

You’re also on the doorstep of the romantic Jordaan District known for wonderful modern art galleries, speciality shops, and restaurants.

amsterdam canal view

Places to visit in Central Amsterdam

Anne Frank House – One of those unmissable places to visit, here you’ll wander around the former space where Anne Frank and her family hid from the Nazis and learn about the events that lead up to her death. With interviews, excerpts from her diary and her original diary on display.

Woonbootmuseum – An unusual and unique visit, the Houseboat Museum lets you experience life on a houseboat set within a traditional cargo ship.

Gallery Vassie – A leading authority in the European fine art photography scene, this is a must-visit for lovers photography. The museum features a diverse collection of work from both key historical and established photographic artists.

Oudemanhuispoort – A must on any book-lover’s Amsterdam itinerary! ‘Old Man House’ is an ancient passage filled with stalls selling used books was once visited by Vincent Van Gogh. Make sure to take a peek at the beautiful courtyard through the windows.

stroopwafel amsterdam

Don’t forget to pick up some delicious waffles while you’re wandering

For those who want to enjoy a cultural and historical overview of Amsterdam, the hotel also offers tailored art and history tours with a guide.

My guide, Michael, took me on a walking tour around the centre of Amsterdam meaning that I saw the highlights of the historical centre of the city.

Like all good guides, Michael shared his vast and encyclopedic knowledge of the area and pointed out things that I certainly would have missed. These cultural insights are priceless and the fact that this can be booked as part of your stay is incredibly convenient.

amsterdam streets

Staying at The Ambassade Hotel, Amsterdam

Staying at the Ambassade Hotel is undoubtedly luxurious, the kind of place to stay for a special occasion or if you simply want to treat yourself.

The service is top quality and the staff are genuinely interested in making your stay perfect, they’re also incredibly helpful if you want to know more about Amsterdam and are happy to book excursions and attractions for you.

The room is large with beautiful views and unique art above your bed. It’s perfect whether you want to relax, take a bath, or spend a few hours writing at your desk.

literary hotel amsterdam

There are plenty of added extras you can request to meet you when you get there from champagne on arrival to chocolate in the room.

If you’d like a relaxing experience while you’re here then don’t miss the opportunity to try floating or experience a relaxing massage at Koan Float which is just a few doors up from the hotel.

A Fine Dining Experience

Breakfast is served every morning in the beautiful Brasserie Ambassade which includes a continental breakfast with fresh coffee, tea, and juice as well as a choice from the menu.

I couldn’t resist having eggs both days which were perfectly scrambled and poached and served alongside a range of sides like mushrooms or bacon. You can enjoy more COBRA art as you eat your breakfast and enjoy a morning view of the canal.

ambassade hotel netherlands

It’s also very worth having at least one dinner there as the menu is full of wholesome French classics and light dishes that are made with fresh produce. Even the table bread and butter were particularly moreish and difficult to resist.

brasserie ambassade bread

I’d highly recommend the duck confit which it one of my favourite meals and didn’t disappoint and the salmon and avocado starter which was perfectly balanced in flavour.

salmon avocado

With flares like vibrant pink beetroot powder garnish, the refined meals at Brasseries Ambassade are as pleasing to the eye as the stomach. You can view their menu online and make a booking even if you’re not staying at the hotel.

duck confit

The Library Bar 

A snug library bar with leather chairs surrounded by shelves lined with thousands of books sounds too good to be true, but, thankfully, the Ambassade Hotel Library Bar is available for anyone who wants to visit and enjoy the experience.

Like any good bar, the drinks menu is extensive with everything from coffees to cocktails, and a whiskey menu with options from Japan, Taiwan, Ireland to name but a few. Tables are also set up with backgammon and chess for a classic game of wits post-drink. 

library bar ambassade

The hotel is a favourite among Dutch publishers who consistently book rooms for their authors here which explains why the cross-section of contemporary international literature displayed here is so dynamic and enlightening.

The guest book is well worth taking a look at with notes from writers such as Salman Rushdie, Isabel Allande, and John Le Carre.

beautiful ambassade hotel

As you might expect you’ll find select pieces of COBRA Artworks in the library and sitting unassumingly behind a glass case you’ll also see a gift from Rex Cowan who is known for salvaging  Dutch East India Company shipwrecks.

The oxidized wine bottle was salvaged from The Flying Deer Ship built in 1729 and still contains its contents.

Literary Salons

Of course, the bookish experience doesn’t stop there. The hotel holds monthly literary salons where authors are interviewed or topical themes discussed in an intimate setting.

The experience is then followed up in the bar where you can get your book signed or mingle with everyone involved.

The salons are free but you must reserve in advance as seats are claimed fast. A musical salon is also held three times a year in partnership with the Amsterdam Sinfonietta.

ambassade hotel paintings

Samsara Publishing

The hotel also manages a publishing company named Samsara where you can pick up a number of books in Dutch and some in English.

One of the highlights is the introduction to COBRA artists which really helps you understand how special the hotel is from an artist’s perspective.

The hotel is also planning to open a bookshop named Samsara Books & Art which will be located right around the corner of the hotel.

Being able to browse their books as part of your hotel experience is an exciting new addition to an already special literary hotel.

My stay at this special literary and art hotel is one that will stay with me for life, I’m very grateful for my chance to stay there and thank the Ambassade Hotel for hosting me for two nights.You can make a reservation with the Ambassade Hotel on their website.

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